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Thread: Dont cleant your sealed rifle can they say....

  1. #1
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    Dont cleant your sealed rifle can they say....

    Figured Id drop this here and be a test subject for everyone.

    Ive owned a AAC M4-2000 for several years now, I rarely shoot anything 5.56mm unsuppressed now a days.

    Yes I understand almost every rifle suppressor manufacturer says not to clean sealed rifle cans, as they supposedly self cleaning. Hmm sounds somewhat familiar to the Vietnam era thinking of when it came to ARs doesn't it?

    In my experience from shooting mine quite a bit, some sort of cleaning will eventually be needed. I am 8K+++ down my can, which is a heavily conservative estimate, and it has significant carbon fouling.

    I have noticed that switching between different adapters, such as a MB to a FH on separate hosts will knock a small amount free, but still there is significant fouling.

    One thing to note, I didn't use a FH mount until this summer, doing so knocked a few large chunks free, and then I noticed I had a end cap strike. Not sure I can 100% blame the carbon breaking loose causing this, but having that rattle around inside a can cannot be good.

    Ive tried a few different thing, I have soaked it in mineral spirits, carbon killer, CLP, with absolutely no results. I have tried copper and steel brushes, with no results. The only thing that has even began to remove the fouling is a flat head screw driver and a hammer(yea its in there that good).

    So despite the standard response of, you don't need to clean your suppressor, what can I do here?

    Update- I already whaled at it with a screw driver and hammer. Next step is to either dip it or drop it in the cleaning tank at the shop. Ill post pics with the after action results of which ever I go with.












    [span style='font-weight: bold;']Updated pic after being tenderly loved with a hammer and flat head screw driver[/span]







    2ND Update: Now onto more serious measures.

    First several cycles of the ultrasonic cleaner provided zero results. I was about to think I wasted my money, then a few more cycles and the tank looked like this. After the last cycle of the night I pulled the can out and could clean carbon from the blast chamber much easier than I ever thought I would. I think with several more hours in the UC it will provide nice results





    Im still not done. Im going to do several more cycles in hopes it comes out looking new.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chase45 View Post
    Ive tried a few different thing, I have soaked it in mineral spirits, carbon killer, CLP, with absolutely no results. I have tried copper and steel brushes, with no results. The only thing that has even began to remove the fouling is a flat head screw driver and a hammer(yea its in there that good).
    Put the hammer and flat head down - let chemicals to do the work for you.

    By far the best solution I've used is the "dip" - 50/50 mix of hydrogen peroxide and vinegar (peracetic acid), leave it over night or flush it and repeat a few times if necessary. But ensure it's safe for your suppressor first (stainless steel or Inconcel), your M4-2000 is good to go. Don't forget to use PPE and dispose of it properly.

    I also heard soda blasting works, but haven't tried it myself. I imagine it doesn't work well in a sealed can, other than the mounting interface. I've also read that CLR works, but haven't personally tried it yet. Even with the dip, especially in a sealed can, it's difficult with the caked on carbon, as you still need some abrasion to work or wipe the soften carbon out. I also haven't had good luck with ultrasonic cleaners either for the really caked on funk.

    Look forward to seeing how much she'll weigh and the before and after pictures.

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    The hammer and screw driver is what got a majority of it out. AAC said it wasn't a bad method to use in my case.

    I heard from a Surefire employee to use CLR. That's probably my next step. Then the Dip if that doesn't get it done.

    I probably have only cleaned the can for an hour total in the UC. It has a 8 minute cleaning session as a max. That's been annoying to deal with.

    I feel with enough use of the UC it will get clean. It definitely makes the carbon much easier to remove. Its just too bad I cant let that thing run straight for a few days as I know it would be good to go then

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    I have perhaps twice the amount of rounds through my suppressor, almost all fired from a 10.3" or 11.5" w/ Muzzle Brake and my M4-2000 doesn't even look close to that filthy.

    What kind of shooting do you do? Mine has a very, very thin "film" of carbon and that's it. No chunks or anything like what you show in your pics

    Also, on your PEQ how do you use it in the position it's in with the BUIS in front of it? I get really bad IR reflection when used behind a Troy BUIS
    Last edited by Eurodriver; 02-27-15 at 14:58.
    Why do the loudest do the least?

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    Little bit of everything. Goes to the range every time with me, classes, social outings, etc

    Hasn't seen very much full auto.

    I never dump mags through it

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    Hmm, I wonder if the lack of really hot rapid fire is the difference then?
    Why do the loudest do the least?

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    Not sure. It has definitely seen rapid fire before as well as limited full auto. My firing schedules are just all over the place depending on where Im shooting at and for what reason

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    The difference between euros can and chase's can could also be from the brand/type of ammo used.

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    Ive used everything under the sun.

    M193
    M885
    PMC .223
    Wolf .223
    Reloads
    Hornady

    Hard to say what I have used more. Very little wolf(1k) when compared to the others.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chase45 View Post
    Ive used everything under the sun.

    Hard to say what I have used more. Very little wolf(1k) when compared to the others.
    Most of that filth and the end plate strike could be from the 1K of Wolf.
    To educate a man in mind and not in morals is to educate a menace to society. --Theodore Roosevelt--

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