Lubrication and the 1911

[19852]

A while back I got a Colt .38 Super Auto. I had always wanted one, don't know why, just because. I got a decent deal on it and intended it for a range/competition piece. I never wanted to heavily modify it, no race guns here just practical modifications to make it better suit my needs. So a new set of sights, a slightly extended mag release and a modest bevel of sharp edges with refinish is as far as I went.
I was impressed with it's accuracy and smooth function. It also was reliable with my initial reloads and factory stuff. So I decided to do an extended round count test. Since I was using Froglube I lubed it up before testing. It ran gang busters to about 750 rounds then began to experience failure to go into battery. I thought maybe my loads were a little weak along with a weak recoil spring. So I increased the power level of my loads and replaced the RC with a factory standard #14 [I had been using a #9]. Now at about 1000 rounds it is getting sluggish return to battery once again. The lube has become a pasty consistency and I think slowing down the slide return stroke.
My gunsmith once a fan of Froglube is no longer and recommends a return to more conventional lubricants. I was trying to get to 2000 rounds but I may have to clean the pistol and try again with traditional lube. I used to use Enos Slide Glide and Mobil 1.

Anybody else have a similar experience with Froglube or other lubricants? I realize a 1911 is a more lubrication sensitive design compared to modern pistols.

[mikeyd501]

I have heard the same about Froglube turning gummy. They have changed their formulation to either a plant or vegetable based product and it is failing to perform as it once did. They have screwed up a good thing. If you look at their instructions you must now use their solvent prior to applying Froglube and during the winter or long term storage (WTF!).

I have an old series 70 and an Ed Brown. The series 70 is very finicky on lubes. I have tried and like the Seal-1 stuff http://www.seal1.net. It is way better than even the original Froglube once was. It is a true CLP. No other degreasers, solvents, oil or grease is needed. It's the only product I use now.

[Leftie]

Froglube gets gummy after a while, as does FireCLEAN. For 1911s I've started to use Wilson Ultima Lube II on the rails, and FireCLEAN to clean and lubricate everything else. The Wilson grease smoothes .45 recoil impulse and makes for flawless function even in temperatures hovering around freezing. I used to use FireCLEAN exclusively but found it to be too thin to adequately lubricate the full rails on my 1911s.

[mikeyd501]

That's what I like about the Seal-1 product. I don't need one product for this and one for that. I clean it, wipe if off and it's good to go. If you conceal carry and sweat, it also prevents corrosion. I save time & money. All things that are better spent on shooting!

Fireclean was ok. It was pricey. I stuck the series 70 in the freezer for 48 hours (unloaded) with a treatment of Seal-1. Operated flawlessly.

[bjxds]

I use Break Free and SLP on everything and have not had any issues attributed to lube on anything form 20-95 degrees.

[19852]

I am most interested in extended round count testing. Which lube and how much should be applied? Like my AR I run my 1911 wet, maybe I shouldn't?

[CAVDOC]

I find the right amount in the right places and things run fine the type of lube is immaterial. I am not a cleaning nazi but would not lube a gun ad see if it can go 2000 rounds between cleaning or relubrication. Just no need to. My current -911's run great but after every few hundred rounds lube the critical points. Not dripping wet, maybe 8-10 drops to lube the whe gun.like many other things it is not what you use but how you use it

[RCI1911]

I use Slip 2000 EWL. Works great, doesn't gum up and is minimally affected by temperature extremes. Just keep it lubed and don't run it dry. Any regular gun oil will work just fine but it will dry up quicker then specialized lubricants.

[Nightstalker865]

This thread is interesting as I've noticed my WC CQB-E feeling gummy on FireClean. The gun runs flawlessly, but I've wondered why the resistance compared to everything else I use FireClean on.


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[Leftie]

I've been told by others/experienced first hand that with FireCLEAN if you store firearms with it accumulated on the metal then the product gums up. The simple fix that I was told to use was to effectively wipe the gun dry of you're storing it for extended periods of time.