That shim kit from Precision Armament works well. Usually you can get a couple barrels out of one kit as well, I think I've done as many as 3 on one kit.
Gun and Gear Reviews- www.almosttacticalreviews.com
I'm willing to bet that the precision shims are deforming to the shape of some of the annoying shoulder shapes on many barrels. That transition from the shoulder, between the threads often has a radius to it that flanges shims/washers.
"What would a $2,000 Geissele Super Duty do that a $500 PSA door buster on Black Friday couldn't do?" - Stopsign32v
Possibly... I've never tried the precision kit.. But I've seen my thin AAC shims deform. Those are MUCH thinner than anything pictured in the precision kit.
"What would a $2,000 Geissele Super Duty do that a $500 PSA door buster on Black Friday couldn't do?" - Stopsign32v
I always put the thickest shim on the barrel end , I have only used AAC shims but have had zero problems. like the color coding= thickness helps getting the final adjustment
Man, you have really taken issue with this huh? Let me take my foot out of my mouth so that my endorsement for this excellent product that you also like doesn't rub you in such a wrong way. Or so someone can let me know where my understanding went wrong. The instructions advise that once you've selected the correct washer based on their provided chart to note that an additional 10-30 degrees of rotation is possible depending on the final tightening torque. Is it safe to assume that Precision Armament means 10-30 degrees of additional rotation that falls within recommended torque settings for a muzzle device on this platform? Surely they don't mention a 30 degree possibility that would require excessive force would they? I wouldn't think so. And why start at 10 and not 1? Minimal torque requirement, no?
Now seeing that each washer is in a 20 degree increment is it not correct to think that any of multiple consecutive sized washers would have the ability to work for a given muzzle device with up to 30 degrees of spin available when torquing? That's been my experience. Is that incorrect? They also note in the instructions that applying grease to the washer and threads will reduce friction and allow for further spinning for a particular torque load. They aren't recommending excessive torque values again are they?
On my first install I chose a washer that was too large to time the device correctly so I removed it because it came up short. When I started hand tightening the sizes around it I tried that particular used size again and it timed differently with hand tightening. Nothing drastic, but it had been permanently deformed and was now smaller. It was just an observation. I wouldn't be able to correctly use that size in conjunction with the graph. It is what it is. I don't know if it was because of the barrel, because of the washer, or a case of a sudden Herculean effort on my part with a torque wrench but it definitely deformed.
I also said that it was nice to be able to pick a washer to use minimal torque with rocksett for a suppressor mount. Again, minimal torque setting as in within the range of acceptable torque values for a MD on this platform. You decided to interpret that as slather on the rocksett with some hand tightening and off you go. That's not what I said and I thought the acceptable torque value thing would be understood in a discussion like this. Clearly I was wrong. I prefer to stay on the lower side of acceptable torque values myself and this set is great for letting you get that timing nice and close with hand tightening before torquing. Any issues here?
TL/DR, I know. Just genuinely interested in why you're so chapped by my first hand account comments.
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