Just balked my Ejector Roll Pin...

[Purkeypilot]

I was hoping for some advice;

I just used my SAW Ejector Removal Tool to remove the Ejector Pin on one of my Colt Bolts, in order to headspace the new rifle I built a couple of months ago. The removal was completely uneventful. After checking headspace with a 5.56 NATO field gage, I reinstalled the Extractor, placed the bolt back into my SAW Ejector Removal Tool, and used a roll pin starter punch to begin to install the Ejector Pin. I then used a roll pin punch to finish driving the pin into the Bolt, about 3 light taps prior to the pin becoming flush, BOOM, a piece of the pin broke off and the damn thing flared out...I have NO idea how it happened. Seemed WAY unexpected given the proper tools and gentle working...

I'm pretty well considering ordering 5 more from SAW, and calling it a day (or a week as I wait to reassemble my damn Bolt...)

I was just curious what the tech experts think, and if anyone has any advice for me. I'm pretty hesitant to force this one back in given what happened and what it looks like.

Thanks in advance...

[markm]

Those pins can be a pain in the ass. I don't think you did anything wrong. I'd suggest that 1.... you don't need to headspace if it's built with good parts, and 2... get the gauge that's rebated around the rim so you don't have to mess with the ejector.

[Purkeypilot]

Those pins can be a pain in the ass. I don't think you did anything wrong. I'd suggest that 1.... you don't need to headspace if it's built with good parts, and 2... get the gauge that's rebated around the rim so you don't have to mess with the ejector.

Hey Mark, thanks for the quick response! Ya, no kidding...my friggin' jaw dropped...As for headspacing, you and everyone else have the same advice, haha! I guess I'm just a little obsessive. The gun was built with Mega Arms forged stripped upper and lower receivers, BCM upper parts, Stag Arms LPK, BCM RE and Colt 6920 SOCOM Barrel and BCG. It headspaced no problem.

I literally just placed an order with SAW for 6 new Ejector Pins.

Lastly, I've been meaning to pick up one of Bill Ricca's rebated surplus 5.56 Maximum Headspace Gages. This is even more reason to actually do it, but they are marked at $95.

Thanks again for the advice Mark!

[SteveL]

Lastly, I've been meaning to pick up one of Bill Ricca's rebated surplus 5.56 Maximum Headspace Gages. This is even more reason to actually do it, but they are marked at $95.

Thanks again for the advice Mark!

And every time he sells out of them there's no guarantee he'll get any more so if he has any in stock you should probably get one while you can.

[Slippers]

Just cut a slot in your existing gauge for the ejector. 5 minutes with a dremel:

[StainlessSlide]

And it goes without saying that when Dremelling a gauge marked to tenths, be very careful to stone off burrs from the gaging surface.

If something breaks during ejector removal, there is a problem somewhere. Avoiding the removal by neglecting to check headspace is not an answer.

[Purkeypilot]

And it goes without saying that when Dremelling a gauge marked to tenths, be very careful to stone off burrs from the gaging surface.

If something breaks during ejector removal, there is a problem somewhere. Avoiding the removal by neglecting to check headspace is not an answer.

I'll pick up an NSN MHG from Bill Ricca pretty soon here...but no kidding; most headspace gages are measured to the THOUSANDS, and in the picture above, it looks like TEN thousands. Pretty tight.

Honestly, I'm fairly certain there is not a real problem. It's a very small pin as it is, and it's entirely possible I just sucked for one tap, and struck the punch at a slight angle against the split in the pin. I was gentle, but shit happens, it just sucks that I'll have to wait until spares arrive.