I wouldn't weld it, MistWolf has the right idea about making a clamp. You could probably use something like this Troy or DD sling adapter and drill/tap into the extension threads and use set screws to hold it in place. http://www.brownells.com/shooting-ac...prod27321.aspx or http://www.brownells.com/shooting-ac...prod40330.aspx
I like the Troy slingmount, but i found a supplier who got a shipment of Bushmaster lowers in transit.
It will be approx. $ 175 and the Troy slingmount will cost me $ 80.
The broken Stag will most likely become a lamp or something :-)
I predict future happiness for Americans, if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them.
Thomas Jefferson
I got a full refund from the dealer, nice guy.
So i was just wondering if i should try to fix it or scrap it.
At this moment, i think it will become a lamp, wallhanger or paperweight.
If your good with a drill press you could run a 1/64" steel rod through the crack and possibly save the lower but like old cars. "You don't know what the problem is until you try and fix something". The company you got it from should honor the fact that your lower was broken before you used it and replace it. But if that doesn't work try drilling for a 1/64" hole missing the threads for the buffer. If the crack was lower down on the receiver I would tell you to take a 1/32" threaded rod to it if it would be clear of anything but in your case your you are kinda screwed if you can't do the repair and or replacement.
"Guns are tools; people are the real weapons!"
- Anonymous
"The world is a dangerous place to live; not because of the people who are evil, but because of the people who don't do anything about it."
- Albert Einstein
An armed society is a polite society.
- Robert Heinlein
If you want to use it, and if buffer tubes and parts kits are less expensive than the other prices you've posted, I would consider a temporary/permanent fix by gluing a buffer tube in place using one of the metal-bonding epoxy cement products. (Here, an example is JB Weld.) It won't be ideal or elegant or as strong as new, but it might give you some long period of use, especially if you use it as a dedicated .22 rimfire lower since those see insignificant recoil or movement across the cracked area. If you go this route I would thoroughly clean and degrease both the lower threads and the tube threads, and glue the tube in place around the entire circumference, so that the strength and stiffness of the tube helps to minimize flexibility in the lower. I think this is more likely to turn out OK than trying to weld it, regardless of the skill of the welder.
I emphasize that this is a "hey, why not?" type project, but since you (1) are in Norway (not our current paradise of $50 lowers here in the USA), (2) have already received a refund, and (3) have a somewhat large cost to buy lowers - why not?
If it was me, Id permanently install a 7075 A2 RE, and I would TIG (or in your case hire Master Yoda) the flange of the RE around the entire circumference of the back of the lower, thus utilizing the material of the RE to add rigidity. 7075 is weldable, with a few ** behind it, depending on application.
You have nothing to lose, as you have already been refunded. I would bet money youd be GTG for thousands of rounds.
If it fails, then plan B would be make a .22LR pistol Sans RE.
YMMV, but this is what I would LITERALLY atempt with it, if your lower were in my hands. I certainly wouldn't scrap it, at the end of the day its a lower in your possession that's been transferred and paid for. Id hate to REMOVE a lower from the AR15 gene pool.
EDIT Wow, Ive been lurking here so long I didn't even realize this is my first post. I guess theres a first time for everything.
Last edited by BFS; 05-29-15 at 15:34.
Christmas tree ornament.
As stated above 7075 is not weldable. If it were mine and I wanted to use it for a.22lr I would consider gluing a receiver ext in with something like Locktite 648 ( http://www.henkelna.com/industrial/p...=8797927964673 ) with a clamp to align the crack as best you can.
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