Free Float Handguard really necessary?

[Doc Safari]

First some background:

I purchased a Colt AR6721 last weekend and I'm already really impressed with it because it had noticeably greater accuracy over a standard M4 even just plinking at 3D objects at 100 yards. I was hitting targets a tad too small for my standard M4's to hit.

The rifle has an HBAR with a 1:9 twist. I don't plan to shoot anything heavier than 62 gr Fusion rounds so the increase in accuracy is worth the trade for not being able to shoot 70+ grain bullets.

Since buying the rifle and discussing it with friends and acquaintances, I'm already getting responses of "Duuuuuuude! You need to free-float that barrel!"

Well, not being one to want to make major modifications (especially to a brand new weapon), I'm inclined to keep it stock as much as possible.

The front sight base touches the barrel, so it's already not free-floated in the sense that you don't want anything touching the barrel. The front sling swivel is attached to the front sight base, so that's not free-floated either.

At most I would install one of those Daniel Defense free-floated rails that the user can install in about 5 minutes. I'm not up for replacing the barrel or anything like that. Right now I even prefer to use the MI light mount that clamps to the front sight base on my other carbines.

My question is: for $249 should I even bother to invest in the DD rail system given my light mounting preference? Or would I be better off just using those funds toward my tactical light and keep using the standard plastic handguards like I prefer?

Do you really wring that much extra accuracy out of a gun like this by free-floating the existing barrel as best you can given that it has the front sight base and sling swivel attached to the barrel?

I plan to use the rifle for HD and hunting small varmints.

[opngrnd]

Not sure if this helps, but I'm in the same boat as you, except it's with a Colt 6920. Within 200 yards, my Aimpoint equipped free-floated primary carbine doesn't really do anything better for general plinking out to 200 yards when only asking for center mass accuracy. I ran both rifles head to head last week on a carbine stage out to 200 yards, to include a reduced silhouette at about 210 yards, and had no problem at all with the Colt 6920. I actually shot slightly faster with the 6920 do to missing a couple with my other carbine. That might have changed if the stage included support side firing or something similar to push the boundaries of handling, but for now I'm just going to keep it stock and spend that money on ammo. $250 buys a lot of components for reloading Though it would be nice to put a C4 Rail on it one day...and maybe a SSA...

[polydeuces]

It has been demonstrated ad infinum that free floating makes a major difference.
I've seen a 1" poi shift demonstrated by Kyle Defoor during a class - I am sure there's plenty more anecdotal evidence here is you were to ask.
Where does this $250 FF rail baseline come from? There is a crazy wide selection of quality free-float rails available these days for FAR less than $250 - starting for instance with the ALG mlok rails, etc - do some shopping you might be surprised. Swapping it out is as easy as can be (with the right tools) you'll be happy you did.
Then: Just because it has a sling swivel doesn't mean you should use it.....most rails come with QD points.
Good luck.

[Kain]

Not sure if this is going to help the OP either, but Omega rails were running at a number of places on sale in the $200 range, even saw some in the $180 range a few months back. I know I paid about $200 for my Omega for my middy a year ago. So something to consider there. Waiting for a sale and grabbing one when the price is right since it doesn't sound like you need it right this second.

That said, unless you are really pushing for precision a free float rail isn't a need. They are nice to have, and have perks, but for GP and generally speaking, you aren't going to see a night and day difference. Now, if you are going for the greatest amount of precision that you can get then yes grab a good quality FF rail because then it starts getting to the point of a need.

All that said, for me, while my HD rifle is free floated it is that way mostly because it fell that way with a sale. I have thought about slapping the old Magpul MOe back on the bitch, or trying something else, but I haven't had the ambition to do so, and if I did I would be looking at needing a new light mount since I changed the original light from a G2X to a Scout and like my QD sling points too much. I also have another AR that I did pull the FF rail off it and slap on some old carbine hadguards, non-FF. You know what, for a range rifle, I like it more than ever, so there is that too. And yes, for $250 I would be looking at other things first, ammo, sights, putting it towards optics, a nicer trigger perhaps if you feel the need, ect.

At the end of the day, OP it your money. You have a better feel for the role that rifle will fill than us. If you think the pros of a FF rail are in your favor go buy it. If not, and you are happy with the rifle as it, with a none FF handguard, and mostly stock configuration then rock on because there is nothing wrong with a stock rifle if it does what it was designed to do to your satisfaction.

[O3SKILL]

No you don't need it.

It's a accurate Rifle. Keep it stock and run it....practice, take it hunting etc.

If you feel a real need to add a rail later...you can certainly do that.

[MegademiC]

Not needed. It removes torque on the barrel from using a sling or barricade to make a shot, which can be huge.

It also allows you to grab farther out and mount lights out there without affecting the barrel.

[nimdabew]

I won't be adding rails to my rifles. I would rather buy more ammo with the money.

[MistWolf]

If the rifle is consistent enough for your satisfaction and does not hold back your progress as a shooter, there is no need to spend the money to change the handguards to a free float tube. If the day should come that the non-free float tube is holding you back, you can always make the change then.

I planned to build my 10.5 inch shorty with a free float tube but didn't want to wait until I had the funds saved up to start shooting it. I've now had it almost a year and with the MOE, it gives me .75 - 2 MOA at 200 yards, depending on ammo. That's more than good enough to get the job done

[AFshirt]

I like them purely because I can reach out farther on the rail.

[feraldog]

having used both for 40 years at ranges out to 800 yds, its only really necessary if you torque the barrel differently each time you shoot (ie: changing pressure when using a bipod or sling or vertical grip...) or constantly change what you hang off it (one day a light & laser & bipod, next day you strip it all off...)

otoh, if you just support and use the forend the same way each time, i've found it makes little difference even with pencil barrels. with HBARs, far less.