Is their any rational behind using thread lock on a AR pistol buffer tube.

[BufordTJustice]

Loctite threadlocker is not a cyanoacrylate it is an anaerobic.

Acetone will not do much to Loctite threadlocker when used on assembled parts. You will need to use heat for disassembly.

The best thing to use to try to remove the dried threadlocker residue once the parts are disassembled is methylene chloride, though even this doesn't work that great.

My experience proves you wrong. I've used it many times, even on red loctite 271 & 272. With no heat.

[556Cliff]

My experience proves you wrong. I've used it many times, even on red loctite 271 & 272. With no heat.

I'm not saying that acetone doesn't do anything, just that it hasn't worked that great in my experience.

How long are you soaking the parts?

[BufordTJustice]

I'm not saying that acetone doesn't do anything, just that it hasn't worked that great in my experience.

How long are you soaking the parts?

I should be clear; I haven't used acetone yet. I have used Bob Smith Industries Un-cure super glue de-bonder (bsi-161) and Golden West super solvent for cyanoacrylate instant glues. Both available on Amazon.

Soak time varies depending on the type of loctite used and how well it was applied. I usually make several applications and use localized heat from a low power soldering iron to get the fastener just above 200 degrees F. That seems to help the de-bonder work faster. Usually a half hour to an hour.

You don't need much of the de-bonder at all. Just enough to wick into the threads.

[556Cliff]

I should be clear; I haven't used acetone yet. I have used Bob Smith Industries Un-cure super glue de-bonder (bsi-161) and Golden West super solvent for cyanoacrylate instant glues. Both available on Amazon.

Soak time varies depending on the type of loctite used and how well it was applied. I usually make several applications and use localized heat from a low power soldering iron to get the fastener just above 200 degrees F. That seems to help the de-bonder work faster. Usually a half hour to an hour.

You don't need much of the de-bonder at all. Just enough to wick into the threads.

I might have to try those one of these days, thanks for the info.

[Iraqgunz]

According to the MSDS Loctite 271 and 242 both contain methyl methacrylate. I also use the Bob Smith's Un-Cure and it has been about 90% successful for me.

[Junkie]

It's an interesting topic. Loctite isn't required, but may not be damaging for non TDP additions. For it's own intended use, staking works out fine. Sometimes though, a way of retaining torque could be had without breaking the anodizing that sometimes happen with staking. There are many forms of this, and it takes proper prep. For some items I see the addition as a possible compliment to staking to a point that the amount of staking could be reduced to remove less anodizing to extend component life if was to be disassembled later and reused.
The proper staking for a castle nut will remove the protective anodizing layer from the parts. The reality is that most of these parts will never be removed and nobody would notice.
Less mechanical resistance to movement VS a bonding agent could help some things, but I wouldn't omit at least some mechanical tension.

I thought the parts involved with staking (the plate that holds the takedown pin, and the buffer tube nut) were all steel, so while I'm not sure what type of coating it has but it wouldn't be anodizing. Or am I doing something wrong?

[Outlander Systems]

I thought the parts involved with staking (the plate that holds the takedown pin, and the buffer tube nut) were all steel, so while I'm not sure what type of coating it has but it wouldn't be anodizing. Or am I doing something wrong?

The receiver end plate is steel, so you are correct.

[tom12.7]

The staked parts are steel. Unfortunately, they can deform into parts that are anodized, normally the RE, sometimes back of the receiver. I've seen many examples of this from quality brands.