TDP says to inline with the wrench...but seen places and recommend to do it 90 degrees.
TDP says to inline with the wrench...but seen places and recommend to do it 90 degrees.
The torque wrench and barrel nut tool should be perpendicular to each other. Torque works on force and distance, lengthening the moment arm by having the torque wrench and barrel nut tool parallel to each other will give you a higher torque than the wrench was calibrated for.
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It won't give a higher torque than it was rated for, but will measure lower than actual torque on the nut itself. If you want to get actual nut torque value, you need to add the distance from the nut to the attachment point on the wrench and then calculate the torque value read on your wrench which should be expected. I would assume that if using an armorers wrench, and using gorilla math, that torquing to about 36-38 foot pounds would be about 40-50 foot pounds at the nut.
90 degrees gives a "true" torque reading because it factors out the additional torque added by the mechanical advantage of the 1/2" square drive hole being a certain distance from the center line of the barrel nut in this case.
That sounds great except for the fact that the torque specs everyone uses have already factored in the added distance of the military barrel wrench when it is used inline as the manual states should be done. (please consult the latest manuals).
That being said the range of the acceptable torque is so large the difference is of no concern unless perhaps you are using 90 degrees at the max value.
I have had enough experience that I rarely need to use a torque wrench these days but a beginner should until they have a few builds under their belt.
Last edited by BillyJack556; 07-13-15 at 10:26.
If the OP or anyone else is interested in doing the math, the proper barrel extension tool (when used properly in the extended "in-line" position) will give you 2.0" of extension (measured from the center of the barrel nut to the center of the attachment point for the torque wrench.
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It doesn't really matter... as far as GI nuts go. There's really only one correct position for any given GI nut. You don't even really need a torque wrench if you're even slightly mechanically inclined.
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I agree with Mark & IG. Once you understand the principle behind tightening the barrel nut, a torque wrench isn't needed.
As far as the correct procedure is concerned, follow the manual. It specifies which wrench is to be used with which wrench and what method is used. If the manual states 40 ft/lbs with the tool inline with the wrench, that's what you must do. Turning the tool 90 degrees or calculating the arm to compensate for the added length is simply wrong
Last edited by MistWolf; 07-14-15 at 00:40.
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