Barrel nut torque...do you inline with the wrench or 90 degrees?

[Koshinn]

In line. One shouldn't be going much above 40 lb feet anyway.

Unless using a USGI barrel nut.

[Iraqgunz]

Per the manual, it is inline with the torque wrench with a torque value of 30-80 ft./lbs.

I agree with Mark & IG. Once you understand the principle behind tightening the barrel nut, a torque wrench isn't needed.

As far as the correct procedure is concerned, follow the manual. It specifies which wrench is to be used with which wrench and what method is used. If the manual states 40 ft/lbs with the tool inline with the wrench, that's what you must do. Turning the tool 90 degrees or calculating the arm to compensate for the added length is simply wrong

[Iraqgunz]

Per the manual, it is inline with the torque wrench with a torque value of 30-80 ft./lbs.

I agree with Mark & IG. Once you understand the principle behind tightening the barrel nut, a torque wrench isn't needed.

As far as the correct procedure is concerned, follow the manual. It specifies which wrench is to be used with which wrench and what method is used. If the manual states 40 ft/lbs with the tool inline with the wrench, that's what you must do. Turning the tool 90 degrees or calculating the arm to compensate for the added length is simply wrong

[BUBBAGUNS]

I don't use a torque wrench anymore. I use to. If I assembling an upper for someone I usually break out the torque wrench, just to show them what it is supposed to be.

[lysander]

90 degrees gives a "true" torque reading because it factors out the additional torque added by the mechanical advantage of the 1/2" square drive hole being a certain distance from the center line of the barrel nut in this case.

No.

It will give a distance closer to "true" but it will still be off a bit...



A is the length of the torque wrench for the correct torque.

B is the distance from the center of the socket lug to the center of the wrenching 'flats'

C is the actual torquing distance.

The actual torque applied with the wrench adapter at 90 degrees will be in proportion to: C = [(A^2) + (B^2)]^0.5

Very close to A but not quite.

[lahunter57]

No.

It will give a distance closer to "true" but it will still be off a bit...



A is the length of the torque wrench for the correct torque.

B is the distance from the center of the socket lug to the center of the wrenching 'flats'

C is the actual torquing distance.

The actual torque applied with the wrench adapter at 90 degrees will be in proportion to: C = [(A^2) + (B^2)]^0.5

Very close to A but not quite.

That's not true. Only the distance perpendicular to the force matters. A is the moment arm.


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[FollowThru]

Here are some helpful resources to get you up to speed:
http://www.cncexpo.com/TorqueAdapter.aspx
https://www.motorcraftservice.com/re...la_main_en.asp
https://www.dmctools.com/Products/to...on_charts.html
http://www.trialsnuts.com/TORQUED.pdf
http://www.engineersedge.com/manufac...e_wrench_1.htm

[Junkie]

I had always done perpendicular because of physics, but if that's already taken into account I'll go in line. I've gotten spoiled by my Aero Precision uppers lately, and not having to line up a barrel nut... but I wish the handguard wasn't so big.

[danieljmaunder]

It doesn't really matter... as far as GI nuts go. There's really only one correct position for any given GI nut. You don't even really need a torque wrench if you're even slightly mechanically inclined.

I agree with mark. If you're using a standard GI Barrel nut, Just crank it down til its alligned

[BUBBAGUNS]

I agree with mark. If you're using a standard GI Barrel nut, Just crank it down til its alligned

Isn't this what most here give so $hit to DPMS, Bushmaster, Olympic and every other brand that is not tier 1 for doing. Calling it a lack of quality control.