ugh...just went and measured my 1/2 drive breaker...it's 14" long...Originally Posted by HansTheHobbit
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Member
ugh...just went and measured my 1/2 drive breaker...it's 14" long...
Senior Member
Did you chase the threads in the old FH? You may have run into carbon that built up beyond the muzzle on the old barrel. A test fit without the washer would have told you that.
Member
Nope...never knew that might be an issue..until right now...geez...... i do seem to recall doing just that and it would not thread all the way on.. So I'm an idiot who thinks he knows what he's doing...great. i can't stand doing things incorrectly.. OCD.
Last edited by Glockman1968; 09-19-15 at 07:45.
Member
I'm assuming I smoked the barrel?
I went to a local guy (so I could have someone there to help me if I needed it) who allowed me to go at it on my own the first time I swapped the barrel. It was then I realized I couldn't continue because my existing gb was a taper pin. So I of course stopped, went home, and ordered a Faxon gb. On my way out I asked if he had another crush washer and he gave me one.. I'm assuming it was new. This was about a week ago. I put it all togehter last night at the shop where I work. All went well except for this FH.
I'd have to pull the rail back off to pull the fh.
16" barrel with a 15" KMR.
Last edited by Glockman1968; 09-19-15 at 08:29.
Senior Member
Don't beat yourself too bad. None of us were born knowing everything. If you decide to take it off and it's a standard DD A2 FH I wouldn't bother to clean it. Even a cheap 1/2 28 bottom tap will cost 3 times what a $9 A2 does.
Member
Well I guess thats the next question....do I need to remove it, clean it up, and reset it? Is it to much force on the end of the barrel? Or, is any damage already done and I screwed myself?
Dam...mit............
Last edited by Glockman1968; 09-19-15 at 08:50.
Senior Member
You probably didn't hurt anything and if you did taking off isn't going to fix it. If you really did pull it to 80 f/p whatever you do don't try to remove it with a reaction rod.
Member
What would be the main issue with having to he-man it on? How do I know if i screwed it up? What should I look for?
I assuming accruacy would be it..
Member
First of all, I doubt you did any permanent damage, so just slow down and take it easy. All the threads are steel, and you used assembly grease, so you've got that going for you. It's also a relief to hear that the breaker bar was only 14''. Knowing that, I'd say your estimate of 50-80 ft/lbs is probably close. It's way too much torque, but not enough to cause permanent damage in and of itself.
But you do need to remove it and do it right. With it on there that tight, you won't have decent accuracy, and if you shoot it like that very much then the muzzle will wear unevenly with the rest of the barrel and make the problem permanent. When you overtorque the muzzle device, it squeezes the muzzle closed a few thousandths, making a constriction.
As for the carbon build up, I don't think that's your problem. The carbon can make it difficult to thread on by hand, but carbon is soft and steel threads are sharp. In my experience, you wouldn't even notice it, especially with that breaker bar on there. Assuming the threads weren't damaged to begin with, I think the crush washer is most likely the problem. The guy could have gotten them mixed up and given you an old one, or some people do use them multiple times. Most often you can get two uses out of them without any problems, so people like to push it. For a buck fifty, though, it's just not worth it.
Member
Well she's unfired so it looks like I'm due for more practical experience.
Can you recommend a good barrel vise setup? Lotta options out there. Reaction rod would be great, but I'm married... no way 100 bucks for a possible one time use will fly.
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