Potential problem installing flash hider

[HansTheHobbit]

Well she's unfired so it looks like I'm due for more practical experience.

Can you recommend a good barrel vise setup? Lotta options out there. Reaction rod would be great, but I'm married... no way 100 bucks for a possible one time use will fly.

Magpul makes one called the BEV block that is similar to the reaction rod. I've not used it myself. The general opinion I've been hearing is that it's better than the standard clamshell type but not as good as the reaction rod. If you plan on working on ARs in the future, then I would suggest the reaction rod. Buy once cry once and never look back. If you never plan on working on another AR, then there's really no downside to just getting a clamshell block. Or you can also make youself a barrel vice block out of some scrap wood. You just need to make a little V shape in two pieces of wood. You can accomplish that with a router or a table saw with the blade set at an angle. That's the route I would go if this will be the extent of your tinkering with ARs.

[daddyusmaximus]

First of all, I doubt you did any permanent damage, so just slow down and take it easy. All the threads are steel, and you used assembly grease, so you've got that going for you. It's also a relief to hear that the breaker bar was only 14''. Knowing that, I'd say your estimate of 50-80 ft/lbs is probably close. It's way too much torque, but not enough to cause permanent damage in and of itself.

But you do need to remove it and do it right. With it on there that tight, you won't have decent accuracy, and if you shoot it like that very much then the muzzle will wear unevenly with the rest of the barrel and make the problem permanent. When you overtorque the muzzle device, it squeezes the muzzle closed a few thousandths, making a constriction.

As for the carbon build up, I don't think that's your problem. The carbon can make it difficult to thread on by hand, but carbon is soft and steel threads are sharp. In my experience, you wouldn't even notice it, especially with that breaker bar on there. Assuming the threads weren't damaged to begin with, I think the crush washer is most likely the problem. The guy could have gotten them mixed up and given you an old one, or some people do use them multiple times. Most often you can get two uses out of them without any problems, so people like to push it. For a buck fifty, though, it's just not worth it.

This is how I read of it on another forum. I over did it trying to get the stupid flaming pig on my KX3 to not be upside down. All of a sudden I was keyholing rounds. I went back to my vortex. Problem solved, but I don't think it was the KX3, it was too much torque on the muzzle threads.

[HansTheHobbit]

This is how I read of it on another forum. I over did it trying to get the stupid flaming pig on my KX3 to not be upside down. All of a sudden I was keyholing rounds. I went back to my vortex. Problem solved, but I don't think it was the KX3, it was too much torque on the muzzle threads.

That should reassure the OP. I've never heard of over torquing a flash hider causing permanent damage. According to everything I've read, your accuracy will return to normal once the pressure is relieved, so long as you haven't put hundreds of rounds through it at least.

Regarding the flaming pig, I think that installs directly without any washers. I looked into one at one time, and I remember reading that it didn't need to be timed. If you want it to show the logo in a certain orientation, I would suggest trying a shim. I think a crush washer would be way too thick if it's designed to bottom out on the shoulder.

[HansTheHobbit]

From Noveske's site:

[QUOTEP]lease be aware that the M15x1 KX3 does not use a crush washer or wire ratchet. The markings on the M15x1 KX3 will NOT time with the rifle. This is cosmetic only.[/QUOTE]

[Glockman1968]

Hans, your a scholar and a gentleman. Thank you.

Lol, I didn't know the BEV block existed...thats perfect for me.

What I like is not having to take the rail off. Needless to say..that and a crush washer ordered.

SO glad I didn't shoot it..and very thankful this site exists...

[MistWolf]

First, you won't know if you over torqued the muzzle device and hurt accuracy until you shoot your rifle. It won't hurt to take the rifle out to see how it shoots. It won't hurt anything to remove the muzzle device and start over, either.

Second, don't use a crush washer. A shim kit costs more but it makes the installation of muzzle devices much easier. In my experience, the torque needed to set a crush washer can vary widely. Torque with shims is more consistent and controllable

[HansTheHobbit]

Hans, your a scholar and a gentleman.

Would you be willing to put that in writing?

[jackblack73]

Well she's unfired so it looks like I'm due for more practical experience.

Can you recommend a good barrel vise setup? Lotta options out there. Reaction rod would be great, but I'm married... no way 100 bucks for a possible one time use will fly.

He was telling you not to buy a reaction rod. Probably because if you truly torqued the flash hider as much as you say, you may run the risk of loosening the barrel extension while removing the flash hider.

[Glockman1968]

He was telling you not to buy a reaction rod. Probably because if you truly torqued the flash hider as much as you say, you may run the risk of loosening the barrel extension while removing the flash hider.

Well we shall soon see the depth of my stupidity, or not hopefully.

Cause I'm pulling it off. Going to make for certain that the FH threads all the way on first and then go from there. I do recall trying to do that with no crush in place and it did not thread all the way to the shoulder.

Sure as hell won't ever make this mistake again, I assure you.

BEV and new crush already ordered. Thanks again for all the replies.

Why must I always learn the hard way lol.

[HansTheHobbit]

Well we shall soon see the depth of my stupidity, or not hopefully.

Cause I'm pulling it off. Going to make for certain that the FH threads all the way on first and then go from there. I do recall trying to do that with no crush in place and it did not thread all the way to the shoulder.

Sure as hell won't ever make this mistake again, I assure you.

BEV and new crush already ordered. Thanks again for all the replies.

Why must I always learn the hard way lol.

That was likely carbon causing that resistance towards the end. It can make it hard to finger tighten, but it's not really a factor once the wrench is involved. It's reasonably certain that you took care of any carbon when you torqued it on the new barrel, so you shouldn't have any problems now. Get in there with a light and see if the threads look to be in good shape. Good luck, hope everything works out.