44 mag locking up?

**CRT2** · 10-02-15, 19:43

Consider: Cylinder hand catching, cylinder star face rubbing, or forcing cone to close to cylinder.

**Straight Shooter** · 10-03-15, 04:32

Had TWO NIB S&W 586's back when they first came out did the same thing. Could not fire but 2-4 rounds, locked up tighter than Dick's hat band. My dealer was telling me it was me, and was telling him hell no it wasn't.
Turned out...S&W had a batch or two go out with undersized cylinders. I saw the recall notice several years later...like over 10 years later.
Something else to consider.

**Singlestack Wonder** · 10-03-15, 19:53

If shooting reloads check for high primers......

**BKennedy** · 10-04-15, 01:04

Ran into something like this today with my model 29. Shooting some 44 Magnums and at one point I can't pull the double action trigger. Dumped the rounds and I noticed a tiny little pin. Turns out it's one of the pins that keep the star or extractor aligne. You may want to check and see if they're still present.

**Malamute** · 10-04-15, 02:19

When a DA revolver gets sticky turning, one of the first things to check is under the extractor star. If it gets unburnt powder or other crud under it, it can cause hang-ups in rotating. A toothbrush works perfect for cleaning it. If you can keep the extractor star out while doing not only the recess in the cylinder and under the star, it can keep stuff from transferring after doing one surface.

It sounds like you are ejecting empties gently. Thats a good way to get unburnt powder under the star. If the muzzle is turned straight up, and the rod sharply slapped with the heel of the right hand (gun held in left with fingers through frame window holding cylinder open), you will get less junk under the star, and the brass will clear the gun more reliably. I dont mess with brass until done shooting, it all goes on the ground or wherever when ejected. Just trying to form good habits.

Somebody brought it up, looking for rubbed spots. Once in a while the rear of the barrel isnt perfectly even, and a high spot can rub the face of the cylinder. a bit of careful work with a fine file can knock the high spots off and make it even if it happens to have that problem.

Barrel/cylinder gap can be between .002" to .008 I believe, and still be in spec.

Oh, also, with the cylinder open, leaning slightly muzzle down so the rear of the cylinder isnt touching the frame boss that keeps it in place, and the cylinder oiled nicely, give the cylinder a spin and look at the front end of the extractor rod. If its wobbly at all (like a couple thousandths out of round in its spin), or theres uneven wear marks from using it, the extractor rod may be bent. I've had it happen a couple times. The part doesnt cost much and is simple to replace. It sure can muck up the DA trigger pull on a couple or so chambers.

Countersunk rims or not, headpsace is headspace, regardless if its recessed or not. There should be a few thousandths clear on fresh shells for the top or firing position between the shell and the frame behind it. Its generally the one that has the least clearance, and the only one that matters for headspace.

**Pappabear** · 10-04-15, 13:35

I felt like upon explosion, the brass gets pushed back slightly , hence the stoppage. Maybe different AMMO will prove more reliable. I'll have a better idea when shoot next time with new found knowledge.

Even with long barrel heavy gun, that 44 full house load barks pretty good. I can see how the brass could get pushed out.

Update to follow.

PB