Gas Issues

[lysander]

Off the top of my head, the distance from shoulder to port center should be around .295.

Per print.

Some commercial ones are .300", but .005" shouldn't make much difference . . .

[The FNG]

I'll have to measure. I also ordered the BDRE dimple jig and a new gas tube just in case. I have a backup BCM gas block too.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[FaxonNathan]

FNG, if you would like, we would be happy to get you squared away here at the Faxon factory and can troubleshoot with all the needed tools.

If you can cover shipping to us, we'll do the work and get it back on us.

[The FNG]

FNG, if you would like, we would be happy to get you squared away here at the Faxon factory and can troubleshoot with all the needed tools.

If you can cover shipping to us, we'll do the work and get it back on us.

I may consider that, and I really appreciate the offer. I got the new carbine buffer and spring yesterday and shot it this morning. Everything seems to function as it should.

However, I'm still not certain that there isn't a gas issue with the rifle. I still plan on dimpling the barrel for the gas block and using a new gas tube. All this means though is that I have to un-pin my barrel and then re-pin it.

Does the buffer and spring really determine a rifles reliability that much? Or did I just make it easy enough for my rifle to operate with a gas leak? My Noveske 16" middy operated without a hitch on the lower with the heavy buffer and spring combo. I think the answer to this question would determine if I would send it back to Faxon to sort things out.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[FaxonNathan]

I may consider that, and I really appreciate the offer. I got the new carbine buffer and spring yesterday and shot it this morning. Everything seems to function as it should.

However, I'm still not certain that there isn't a gas issue with the rifle. I still plan on dimpling the barrel for the gas block and using a new gas tube. All this means though is that I have to un-pin my barrel and then re-pin it.

Does the buffer and spring really determine a rifles reliability that much?

It can, depending on the configuration of the rifle. For rifles on the hairy edge of function, the less reciprocating mass is all that is needed.

Looking at the thread, it seems it was the case with your rifle. That's perfectly OK, and in fact, desirable, as the recoil impulse is basically the same as a tuned gas block -- you just tuned your parts to match.

As the rifle continues to be shot, the gas port will erode (making it larger) and the system & gas rings will wear themselves in, so it will just keep getting better.

[The FNG]

Last update: I finally got the chance to dimple my barrel and go test shoot my rifle. I shot 2- 5 round groups (1 group from each lower I have) and both went off without a hitch. Thanks for the help guys. I think this one's been solved. Nathan, it's good to see that Faxon is so eager to provide support, I really appreciate that. You guys have earned my money in the future.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[P2000]

Just for curiosity, could you switch the spring back to the blue, and switch the buffer back to the spikes and test?

[FaxonNathan]

Last update: I finally got the chance to dimple my barrel and go test shoot my rifle. I shot 2- 5 round groups (1 group from each lower I have) and both went off without a hitch. Thanks for the help guys. I think this one's been solved. Nathan, it's good to see that Faxon is so eager to provide support, I really appreciate that. You guys have earned my money in the future.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Our pleasure to assist anytime.

[The FNG]

Just for curiosity, could you switch the spring back to the blue, and switch the buffer back to the spikes and test?

Nope, I sold it after researching and finding it is quite possibly the worst combination of items that you could add to an AR. However, I did use it on my VLTOR A5 with an H2 buffer and it worked well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk