Armorers: Recommend a solid torque wrench for the occasional builder?

[RIDE]

The only thing I use a torque wrench on, in regards to AR's, is on the LMT MRP's for quick change barrels.

For that, I use this: http://www.rei.com/product/823101/ef...que-wrench-kit

It's expensive, but it is quality.

[tb-av]

Maybe there is some secret I was not let in on but torque spec for the AR15 barrel nut is a pretty wide range so I don't see why accuracy is important. The main thing is making sure the gas tube fits unless you are using a nontraditional barrel nut.

The only thing I can figure, and I am in a learning phase here, is the tighten to 30 , loosen, tighten to 30, loosen, etc. then tighten to whatever... if you don't have a 'feel' for what is and what isn't then a wrench is nice. .. .and I've seen more than one comment here where someone has cranked a nut down to beyond max spec.. So I suppose having a known in place as you tighten might alert you to 'is everything ok here' type deal.

@RIDE
Now your name makes sense... damn... I would be worried about riding a bike that needed that level of sensitivity, much less a rifle. I appreciate it but damn... buy once - cry once I suppose.

[Coal Dragger]

Maybe there is some secret I was not let in on but torque spec for the AR15 barrel nut is a pretty wide range so I don't see why accuracy is important. The main thing is making sure the gas tube fits unless you are using a nontraditional barrel nut.

A torque spec is needed for people like me. You see, I'm a moron, and I'm also pretty strong. Not a good combination when tightening some fasteners, unless you're a fan of stripped bolt heads, broken bolts, or severely over torqued parts.

[Leuthas]

The fact you're looking into a torque wrench is good. Proper torque is far too often overlooked with mechanical components, we're lucky ARs are generally forgiving of people who think their fingers are an adequate replacement. And be cautious of cheaper (store-brand) options with torque equipment - fast component wear is a major problem, causing the driver to give too early.

Take a look at RIDE's suggestion, or if you're up for it, this is what I use: Here

[Shorts]

Snap-On or CDI... I can't really recommend anything else because I'm a tool snob.

I would sooner use no torque wrench than a torque wrench from Harbor Freight.

This. Lol.

OP, CDI is an excellent choice - affordable for those who don't use their tools to make a living but achieve consistent results.

A good torque wrench is not just going to be used on an AR build. Come on people, can't believe OP is being discouraged from buying a toy...uh tool.

Happy shopping OP.

[tb-av]

I wish I could recommend one. I don't use them and simply rely on my feel and previous experience.

"He who feels it knows it"
Bob Marley

[WaldoOneFive]

I have used this basic BEAM style Craftsman torque wrench ever since I was certificated as an armorer years ago... http://www.sears.com/craftsman-1-2-i...2&blockType=G2

Like others have said, after doing so many builds, you just get the proper feel of the correct amount of torque needed for castle nut, barrel nut, etc.

I went with the Beam style there over the "click" versions that are very popular because I was taught/told that the click ones can be inaccurate, and the simple beam ones with a needle is more accurate although more primitive.

[Leuthas]

I have used this basic BEAM style Craftsman torque wrench ever since I was certificated as an armorer years ago... http://www.sears.com/craftsman-1-2-i...2&blockType=G2

Like others have said, after doing so many builds, you just get the proper feel of the correct amount of torque needed for castle nut, barrel nut, etc.

I went with the Beam style there over the "click" versions that are very popular because I was taught/told that the click ones can be inaccurate, and the simple beam ones with a needle is more accurate although more primitive.

"Click" versions are generally seen that way due to inferior build, or misuse in that the user doesn't 'back-off' the torque setting whenever it isn't in use.

[MistWolf]

I wish I could recommend one. I don't use them and simply rely on my feel and previous experience.

This right here. The barrel nut is designed so that when it's snugged down after being backed off two or three times, lining it up to the next notch will give you the right torque.

Now, for those big strong guys without a good feel for it, get a torque wrench

[Averageman]

I have used this basic BEAM style Craftsman torque wrench ever since I was certificated as an armorer years ago... http://www.sears.com/craftsman-1-2-i...2&blockType=G2

Like others have said, after doing so many builds, you just get the proper feel of the correct amount of torque needed for castle nut, barrel nut, etc.

I went with the Beam style there over the "click" versions that are very popular because I was taught/told that the click ones can be inaccurate, and the simple beam ones with a needle is more accurate although more primitive.

"Click" versions are generally seen that way due to inferior build, or misuse in that the user doesn't 'back-off' the torque setting whenever it isn't in use.

I've got the Beam Model you linked to at home for personal use. At work we use the "Click" versions and most of the time they are not backed off after use. I'm the "Calibration Guy" here, so stuff like that keeps me rather busy dragging tools back and forth.
I prefer the beam type for my stuff and as I have gotten older I've found finding the specification you want and then trimming a thin piece of electric tape to fit right to the gauge makes it a little easier for me to read at various angles as I work.

The real bane of our existence is quality fasteners at work. It would seem that China is squeezing in some low quality hardware that isn't to spec. The Company we 'emergency" buy from is in a shambles as this stuff has gotten in to their stock.