IRON SIGHTS, what "paper" targets do you use at 100, 200, 300 yards?

**NinjaLoader** · 03-23-16, 16:35

My 100 yard prototype..

**NinjaLoader** · 03-23-16, 17:55

Prototype 2 "boobs down":

**NinjaLoader** · 03-23-16, 17:56

200 yard prototype, one of each "boobs up/down":

**NinjaLoader** · 03-23-16, 18:42

These NRA "SR" Targets are going to be perfect for 200 yards since my rise is just over 6" with my current load. Not going to touch them except maybe stick a 4" Orange dot on them.

Will also try them at 300yards because they're the largest I currently have.

Will also try the pink body silhouette target shown here at 300:

**NinjaLoader** · 03-27-16, 11:19

Easter update: Went shooting yesterday, chronograph'd my new load, 5.56x45, 77gr SMK, 24.5 gr RL15, Seating Depth 1.877" to ogive measured with Hornady 2-22 bullet comparator, 10 shot average, 10 ft from chrono: 2673 fps.

Since the 50 yard range had other guys shooting, I couldn't go up to the 25 yard line to re-zero the new load but it still wouldn't explain why my shots were low on all of my targets at 100, 200, and 300 yards. Obviously it was something I was doing differently than when I zeroed the sights a week ago.

I am trying to make sure when I cheek weld, I can feel the step down from the sliding buttstock down to the buffer tube with the corner of my mouth.

I'm still having difficulty seeing a crisp front sight at all yardages.

I found out that the orange sticker dots I used are NOT helpful on a light paper, if it were a generally black target like my Cabelas square targets, it would have been more effective I think.

Simply just cutting off the target at the aim point horizontal line was the easiest to line up for me, the best was the large NRA SR size target at 200. At 300, the SR target was ok, but the pink silhouette framed very nicely as the width of the post was just shy of the width of the paper. I could see a simple black silhouette with a white circle center of mass being very good at 300.

Next weekend hopefully I'll have a new front sight. I ordered a set off amazon for $27 and among other styles of posts it comes with a square .050" and .03" square post. I'll likely try .050". But, this could make things worse since I'm having difficulty seeing the .070" front post to begin with.

I also want to shoot prone instead of at a bench next time too, so it's the same as when I re-zero at 27 yards (25 m).

A few other variables to note: when I sighted in at 25m last time, I clicked one notch past 8/3 and then actually forgot to move it back to 8/3 when k shot 1/2 hour before dark last time (see OP). I remembered to move it back to 8/3 this time which would lower the poi but not as much as show on the targets. Definitely me. Next zero sight in at 25m I'm just going to keep it on 8/3 (A2 elevation marking) when I zero.

Lastly, I lasered the target backboards. 100 is actually 87yards, -.5* LOS. 200 is actually 193, +1.0* LOS, and 300 is actually 293, +1.5* LOS.

According to my ballistic calculator, if I want a 300 yard zero, I will also be zeroed almost exactly at 27yds. That's why my new load at 2673 is so exciting to me.

Here's the targets. I will definitely need to keep practicing:

100

200

300

**Auto-X Fil** · 03-27-16, 11:31

NRA high power targets are about 6MOA for all distances. I'm comfy with that size and it works well.

**T2C** · 03-30-16, 16:59

Until you get use to keeping the weapon plumb, flat bottom targets help to reduce cant. Here is an example of what canting will do to a group. I shot this group this morning at 100 yards with M193 55g FMJ. The weapon was an iron sight rifle with a thin 20" barrel. During follow through the rifle came to rest at 6 O'clock canted to the left and I knew I threw the shot to the left before checking the spotting scope.

**NinjaLoader** · 04-01-16, 11:20

Originally Posted by T2C

Until you get use to keeping the weapon plumb, flat bottom targets help to reduce cant. Here is an example of what canting will do to a group. I shot this group this morning at 100 yards with M193 55g FMJ. The weapon was an iron sight rifle with a thin 20" barrel. During follow through the rifle came to rest at 6 O'clock canted to the left and I knew I threw the shot to the left before checking the spotting scope.

Wow, I'd like to get to the point where I am aware of my follow through and technique to reliably predict shot placement. I just bought some of those targets (Nra 200 reduced to 100). My rifle seems awfully similar to yours, thin barrel, Colt upper.

Last night I just adjusted my mil spec rear sight so that I can click past 8/3 a handful of times. I'll re-sight at whatever my zero is around 27-28 yards so that I'm zeroed (theoretically) at 300 yards.

Then, in theory I should be able to dial in a no hold-under zero for 100 and 200..

We'll see how that goes.

My new front sight is pretty cool. It's a square .072" bass and the tip steps down to .052". We'll see how that goes too.

Cheers.

**NinjaLoader** · 04-01-16, 11:27

With a 300 yard zero, approx 28 yard zero..

**T2C** · 04-01-16, 14:27

There are a lot of opinions about at what range you want to zero. A majority of the non-match ammunition I shoot is 55g and as a rule, regardless of barrel length, I adjust my sights to hit 2" high at 100 yards. For this particular rifle it gives me a 250 yard zero. I set the rear sight at 300 minus 4 clicks at that zero and I can either adjust the elevation up 4 clicks at 300 yards or hold over 2 MOA. I fired the rifle at 250 and 300 yards and the sights are on the money. As a rule + 2" at 100 yards will give you a rough battle zero out to 250 yards.

The measured average muzzle velocity of the same ammunition is 240 fps slower when fired out of my 16" carbines. I set the rear sight for a POI of + 2" at 100 yards with the elevation set at 300 minus 5 clicks. At 300 yards I hold over 3 MOA or raise the elevation 5 clicks.

I can't comment on what a computer program will tell you about different loads; I am not a computer person and would be talking way out of my lane. All the data I compiled over the past 30 years is from measuring muzzle velocities with a chronograph, referring to ballistic tables in reloading manuals, shooting at known distances and writing the data in my rifle log books.

When you start using different bullets weights and velocities, you have to experiment with hold over and elevation adjustments and fire groups at the longest distances your range facilitates to verify your zero and how many clicks elevation is required for those zeros. Some people are deathly afraid of adjusting their iron sights and I suggest not going down that path. Learn how to read the wind and light and adjust your sights accordingly.

The longer the distance is to the target, that much more attention has to be paid to canting and follow through. Once the light bulb goes off, you will have a lot of fun making good hits on targets out to 600 yards with iron sights.

Good luck and good shooting!