Removing over-torqued castle nut

[Wake27]

So I went a little too far tightening the castle nut down when I was installing my A5 RE. Enough so that the metal bent slightly which bothered me, so I am now trying to take it off and replace it properly. However, this thing is proving to be a massive pain in the ass to get off. I really don't know how much I over torqued it by, but now the castle nut is really deforming and I'm having trouble just keeping the wrench in the slots. Any suggestions? This is why I usually don't mess with things. I didn't even stake it or put thread locker on, just some anti-seize.

[lahunter57]

I would try applying a little bit of heat first


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[tb-av]

have you got any sort sort of square stock you can tap at it with after the heat? a square punch that would fit the notch. It might break loose just a hair so the wrench will work again.

[titsonritz]

Heat the castle nut and chill the RE.

[Wake27]

Heat the castle nut and chill the RE.

How would you suggest that? Ice packs?

[GH41]

The heat/chill method will be pretty much useless in this application. Don't know if you are holding the receiver or extension. I always hold the least expensive part. The tube. Stand the tube up in a vise with soft jaws. It doesn't have to be tight. Set it up so the adjustment track keeps the tube from turning. A helper may be needed told hold it upright. If you have wasted the notches in the nut put a pipe wrench on it. It's probably not that tight. I suspect you are holding it in a way that is absorbing the torque you are applying.

[Inkslinger]

Another thing you can try is tapping on the wrench with something. I don't mean the handle. While applying pressure to loosen, tap on the wrench where it is encompassing the nut. Pretty solid taps, not so hard as to cause damage, but also not some wimpy little love taps. Sometimes a little vibration helps break the friction.

ETA: I didn't realize you were using the Magpul wrench. I would try it with the spanner style wrench. There might still be enough meat in there for one of those to get a bite.

[MistWolf]

You have two options you can try.

First, with the lower properly secured in the vise, turn the RE in a counter clockwise direction to break the torque. This will result in the end plate lightly damaging a small part of the threads when the locking tab jumps the locking groove, but you'll be able remove the castlenut from there.

Second, you can cut or chain drill the castlenut most of the way through its thickness in two, three or four places. Then, you can use a punch or a chisel and a hammer to break away the castlenut. Fit the chisel in the groove made by cutting or chain drilling and hit it in the direction you would to spin the castlenut off in this fashion. The castlenut will either spin off, or break at the groove.

If you decide to use this method, make sure you do not drill or cut so deep that you drill or cut into the threads. Also, you must make at least two cuts and they should be opposite each other. You can also try your castlenut wrench after making your cuts before using the chisel. Take your time and be careful

[Wake27]

Sorry, thought the pictures showed more of how it is set up. I have the reaction block locked in the vise and am using the Magpul wrench. I'm pretty sure the threads on the tube are already ruined.


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[titsonritz]

I've used Freon or even compressed air.