Nickel Teflon (NP3) Bolt Carrier Group BCG

[Kdubya]

I listed these 3 because they represent 3 separate categories. The DSA is the least expensive,...the SCIONICS because their brand comes highly recommended here, and the SRC because of the unique carrier design along with the NP3 Plus coating. Others include:

Stag Arms
https://www.stagarms.com/nickel-tefl...-right-handed/

TR Enabling M-16 Obsidian
http://www.tr-enabling.com/product-p/m16obbcg.htm

Wilson Combat
http://shopwilsoncombat.com/Bolt-Car...fo/TR-BCA-NP3/

Kaiser
https://www.kaiserus.com/product/ksp...carrier-group/

That makes sense, and is a good way to approach this topic. I've come across the above as well, with the exception of the Kaiser. The Obsidian is intriguing, as I'm not sure it's technically Nickel Teflon. Much like these...

http://www.crypticcoatings.com

Again, it's kind of an apples and oranges scenario with it being different than NP3. But, the properties of their coating very closely mimic NP3, and even appear to outperform it in some regards. A few of the colors may be a bit too ostentatious for me, but they seem to be well made. Definitely not cheap though.

[MeanCarbine]

I went with the SIONICS for my 300blk build. The DSA is coated by a local business not Robar, per DSA CS. I may end up getting the Kaiser for my LW build.

[Screwball]

Is the sonics bcg chrome lined in the bore of the carrier and gas key, under the np3? I may have asked or seen this before, but does anyone have a picture of a bolt or cam pin after a few thousand rounds on an np3 bcg.

I've had a few things done by Robar... they very likely took everything down and plated under the key.

They redid my 870 Police and my 642-1 in NP3+. Very happy with the results. The serial number on the 642 faded when they chemically stripped the anodizing, so they restamped it. Good thing about it was I had a light scratch in that location which was removed. When I converted the 642 to 9mm with a new cylinder, sent it in to match. One is my ankle gun (still looks new) and the other is my home defense shotgun.





I can vouch for the finish, and wouldn't hesitate if I needed another BCG. As long as the base parts are quality, should be good to go.

I've also used CCR's cera-plate on a number of guns/parts. Did Garand clips in it, screws that tend to rust (CT grips on my LCP... and the entire LCP), CX4 bolt, among others. Their finish is good to go, as well... but don't think they do any commercial work where BCGs would be offered somewhere. They will do one you supply.

[TED]

Let me tell you how awesome Robar's NP3 is. I am a truly horrible lazy slob when it comes to cleaning guns. If they aren't one of my primary weapons, like a carry piece, then I only clean them when they start slowing down. That is part of why I love Glocks and AKs so much.

When I decided to get into a 5.45 AR back in the day I knew that my lackadaisical cleaning would not fly with corrosive ammo. So, I looked at and gave serious thought to a piston conversion. In the end, I went with getting a whole upper done up in NP3 and put it on a Cav Arms polymer lower.

When you just wipe it with a soft clean cloth, up to 80% of the crud just wipes away. This is especially true if you use a micro fiber cloth. It is absolutely mind blowing. Seriously. I have had no corrosion issues with the upper (and of course the polymer lower neither). As of yet, nothing that won't buff out on the FCG either.

While I'm on a roll, let me tell you about SW customer service. I lost the extra power hammer spring meant for the 5.45 ammo while cleaning the FCG one day. They sent me a free one, with a laugh and a smile. I have not lost that one yet.

[QuickStrike]

So how hard is it to clean the bolt tail area with the Np3 finish? Paper towel and solvent or some actual scrubbing involved?

[ABNAK]

So how hard is it to clean the bolt tail area with the Np3 finish? Paper towel and solvent or some actual scrubbing involved?

Actual scrubbing, but as I said earlier you have to be careful what you use. A plastic bore brush is what Robar recommended, NOT a metal brush or the green "scratchy pads" like we used to use in the Army.

The bolt tail is the litmus test for carbon removal, or ease thereof. I have yet to see a bolt tail literally just wipe clean after firing. That shit is baked on there and (at least up to this date) will always require a little elbow grease.

[Kdubya]

Actual scrubbing, but as I said earlier you have to be careful what you use. A plastic bore brush is what Robar recommended, NOT a metal brush or the green "scratchy pads" like we used to use in the Army.

The bolt tail is the litmus test for carbon removal, or ease thereof. I have yet to see a bolt tail literally just wipe clean after firing. That shit is baked on there and (at least up to this date) will always require a little elbow grease.

So what exactly do you use to clean it? I have an "Otis" type tool and a plethora of bronze and nylon brushes. Just patch and CLP?

[ABNAK]

So what exactly do you use to clean it? I have an "Otis" type tool and a plethora of bronze and nylon brushes. Just patch and CLP?

I have a plastic/nylon bore brush I utilize. Use it like you would an old metal bore brush on a parked or chromed bolt tail. I wouldn't scrape it with a tool of any sort. It's an awesome finish but don't go hog-wild.......take your time with a stiff nylon bore brush and it'll eventually be like new (which is how I like mine).

A friend of mine has a Robar coated BCG and he uses a nylon brush wheel on his Dremel but at lower speed and with the wheel moving downward or very carefully sideways on the bolt tail so as to not snag a gas ring. "Risky" but it works. He has these hard rubber-like vise blocks that won't mar metal. He clamps the bolt in there on the gas ring portion.

[Kdubya]

I have a plastic/nylon bore brush I utilize. Use it like you would an old metal bore brush on a parked or chromed bolt tail. I wouldn't scrape it with a tool of any sort. It's an awesome finish but don't go hog-wild.......take your time with a stiff nylon bore brush and it'll eventually be like new (which is how I like mine).

A friend of mine has a Robar coated BCG and he uses a nylon brush wheel on his Dremel but at lower speed and with the wheel moving downward or very carefully sideways on the bolt tail so as to not snag a gas ring. "Risky" but it works. He has these hard rubber-like vise blocks that won't mar metal. He clamps the bolt in there on the gas ring portion.

Interesting. I guess if it is markedly easier to clean, the conventional "tools" shouldn't be necessary. I just find it interesting that NP3 has to be "handled with care". As far as I know, it's not nearly as hard as Nickel Boron, but is slightly harder than the standard phosphate coating. Again, if it essentially wipes clean it probably doesn't matter. I guess if one is hell bent on using bronze brushes and Otis tools they could always do a NP3 carrier and a NB bolt.

[ABNAK]

Interesting. I guess if it is markedly easier to clean, the conventional "tools" shouldn't be necessary. I just find it interesting that NP3 has to be "handled with care". As far as I know, it's not nearly as hard as Nickel Boron, but is slightly harder than the standard phosphate coating. Again, if it essentially wipes clean it probably doesn't matter. I guess if one is hell bent on using bronze brushes and Otis tools they could always do a NP3 carrier and a NB bolt.

I'm not sure if it's the Teflon component used or what but it is not as abrasion resistant from what I gather. Someone please feel free to correct me if it's not the Teflon and "abrasion" is not the correct term. My Sionics NP3 BCG is awesome but my personal preference is hard chrome.......an old brass bore brush cleans that bolt tail right up!