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Thread: Steel Target Setup

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by P2Vaircrewman View Post
    '

    I think the fabric reinforced belting is closer to the mud flaps.
    That's what I was thinking. It's rubber over cotton.

    Another thought I had was I've got some iron T posts laying around. Few of those would make a good stand then add the belts to attach.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by nova3930 View Post
    That's what I was thinking. It's rubber over cotton.

    Another thought I had was I've got some iron T posts laying around. Few of those would make a good stand then add the belts to attach.
    Hmmmm,kinda like fire hose. The belting does sound like a great alternative,cost $$$ but just call/click/order and wait for it to show up,,,I like that ideal & will keep them in mind.

  3. #13
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    Digging around in my stash I've found some 1.5" PVC already in an H-frame config about 5 feet long. Wish I could remember where I got it. Also found some wire rope with clamps.

    Think I'm going to use what I have on hand for now and upgrade as things break. Save $ for ammo....

  4. #14
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    I used a PVC target stand very briefly. Only took a stray round or two to completely render it useless, never again.
    I also agree with setting up the plates at an angle. I've been having issues with ricochets on one particular plate of mine that's mounted semi-rigid & vertically. I've had a few 300 subs coming back at me 75+ yards from the plates.
    Quote Originally Posted by JSantoro View Post
    Stop dicking the dog, please. It's gross.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ryno12 View Post
    I used a PVC target stand very briefly. Only took a stray round or two to completely render it useless, never again.
    I also agree with setting up the plates at an angle. I've been having issues with ricochets on one particular plate of mine that's mounted semi-rigid & vertically. I've had a few 300 subs coming back at me 75+ yards from the plates.
    Yeah, I don't expect it to be a long term solution. The low low price of free is right though...

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

  6. #16
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    some of the advice in this thread is appropriate for slow fire shooting. it is wildly inappropriate for rapid fire. if you shoot a hanging plate with a pistol or rifle, it's going to change the angle as it bounces around. if you follow up with a .15 split or even a .4 split, you have two basic problems:

    1. the target may not be in the same general location as it was for the first round, so even if your second shot goes in the same spot as the first, you may not be rewarded with a 'ping' because the target is swinging back and out of the way. this effectively turns "training" or "practice" into "making random noise" because you lose the feedback of whether or not you hit.

    2. regardless of the original angle, the target may no longer be at a safe angle. a hit high on a plate by the bolt tends to make targets bounce up slightly and angle them upwards, so a rapid second round could hit the plate at a 45* up angle and launch your hot lead over your berm.

    hanging plates are mostly worthless for pistols unless they're really heavy, which yours are not. for a 10/22 they're fine and it won't really matter what you hang them with.
    Last edited by taliv; 05-11-16 at 15:22.

  7. #17
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    Here is a handy little safety guide, originally written by Paul Schloem(sp) of PortaTarget and now supplied by Savage Range Systems after they purchased PortaTarget:

    http://savagerangesystems.com/doc/guides/safety.pdf

    You'd be surprised how many folks don't know this stuff.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by taliv View Post
    some of the advice in this thread is appropriate for slow fire shooting. it is wildly inappropriate for rapid fire. if you shoot a hanging plate with a pistol or rifle, it's going to change the angle as it bounces around. if you follow up with a .15 split or even a .4 split, you have two basic problems:

    1. the target may not be in the same general location as it was for the first round, so even if your second shot goes in the same spot as the first, you may not be rewarded with a 'ping' because the target is swinging back and out of the way. this effectively turns "training" or "practice" into "making random noise" because you lose the feedback of whether or not you hit.

    2. regardless of the original angle, the target may no longer be at a safe angle. a hit high on a plate by the bolt tends to make targets bounce up slightly and angle them upwards, so a rapid second round could hit the plate at a 45* up angle and launch your hot lead over your berm.

    hanging plates are mostly worthless for pistols unless they're really heavy, which yours are not. for a 10/22 they're fine and it won't really matter what you hang them with.
    Quote Originally Posted by 26 Inf View Post
    Here is a handy little safety guide, originally written by Paul Schloem(sp) of PortaTarget and now supplied by Savage Range Systems after they purchased PortaTarget:

    http://savagerangesystems.com/doc/guides/safety.pdf

    You'd be surprised how many folks don't know this stuff.
    Appreciate both bits of info.

    That document puts a whole new spin on things. Gotta find a way to hard mount the things it seems. Might have to break out the welder....

  9. #19
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    I use a garden shepherds hook (meant for hanging potted plants). I cut off the base.

    I then stake a farm t post in the ground and slip a steel pipe over the t post.

    I then slide the shepherds hook to the pipe.

    I just hook the silhouette in the middle hole. It does a very good job and lasts.

  10. #20
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    If you have a quarry nearby, the worn out rock crusher conveyor belts make great plate hangers. They come from 3/8" to 5/8" thick and will take an amazing amount of hits or splatter before becoming unusable. They are layers of rubber and fabric and can be cut with a matt knife and drilled for the mounting holes. Best part - they are useless to the quarry when worn out and you can usually get them for free (or a six pack). I made up a frame out of 5'8" rebar legs and 3/4" horozontal bar with 1" black pipe sockets to receive the rebar. It all breaks down, no bolts or screws needed.

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