suppress my Nosler M48 Liberty 300wm

[tmwtrfwler]

maybe a dumb question but one that's come up with a project of mine. Follow me here for a second as I describe the project:

My goal is to suppress my Nosler M48 Liberty 300wm. It comes with a 24" magnum contour barrel that has an OD at the muzzle of .65 (confirmed by Nosler).

- Most don't recommend a 1/2x28 thread on a .30 cal can

- Thunderbeast has a great .pdf showing requirements (theirs at least): https://thunderbeastarms.com/tech/thread-specifications

- Per the diagram in the link above the Nosler .65 barrel would also be too small for a 9/16x24 as that requires .662. So I'm left with looking at 1/2x28. The shoulder would be too small if factoring a .003 shoulder as Thunderbeast requires.

- With Thunderbeast being out of the question for my project that led me to Crux Suppresors.

- They design their tolerance for a .002 shoulder and paired with their 1/2x28 break for a .30 cal can this rifle will be within spec on their end. As such I ordered their ARK30 which is 12oz and 7.5".

- Nosler can thread the barrel 1/2x28 for me as they thread all their brakes for 1/2x28 no matter the caliber. *I've got calls into other places like GAP, etc. that thread as well.

So, the question is this; Why can breaks be threaded 1/2x28 but for a suppressor it's not acceptable / recommended by some? Is it the weight of the can?

If it's really a big problem to thread 1/2x28 for a .30 cal can then I could always cut the barrel down an inch or two to get a bigger shoulder but I hate to lose velocity and powder burn. However, for a minute of deer/elk game gun it may not be a huge deal.

[Auto-X Fil]

Thread it 1/2-36, and then JB-Weld on this adapter, capturing one of their Accu-Shim 1/2" washers behind it.

http://precisionarmament.com/product...hread-adapter/

The -36 thread will leave a lot more meat in the barrel than -28, and the adapter will take some of the elongating stress from the 5/8-24 TBA.

The thing you are trying to avoid is stretching of the last 1/2" of barrel. If the walls are real thin, torquing on a can or brake will stretch the barrel, distorting the rifling at the critical moment when the bullet leaves. That can kill accuracy.

FYI, I've done just what I suggest on a Borden 300 WSM with very thin barrel... I just haven't tried it out yet. I dry-fit everything and it seems great.

[tmwtrfwler]

Thanks for the input. appreciate it.