The Factory Edge

[JackFanToM]

I have been sharpening knives as more than just a hobby for a few years now, and "factory edge" is a term I hear about as much as this forum hears the the term "mil spec". I hear it from customers asking if I can restore their knives to factory sharp, or I hear vendors of sharpening equipment boast how they can bring knives back to that "original factory edge". Let state this one fact for all those that aren't aware....factory edges are complete garbage. Even the good knife manufacturers use either wheels or belts to sharpen their knives, and these methods create terribly imprecise edges with flat spots, low spots, bad angles, and edges that feel sharp because they are "toothy" not truly sharp.

I own, and have sharpened knives from Kershaw, CRKT, Lionsteel, Kizer, Spyderco, Benchmade, ZT, and many more, and except for a few full customs that are hand sharpened, they all are pretty inconsistent. I can tell you from experience that quite a lot goes into creating and maintaining a razor sharp edge. Things that make a knife truly sharp and maintain that edge are items such as the steel itself, the heat treat, the bevel angle, the blade design, and of course the sharpening method. Often a micro bevel is the way to go in truly "hard use" knives, as they return quicker to razor sharpness and provide a wider shoulder than the knife would have if it simply took the primary bevel to sharp. I have not seen a single factory knife with a micro bevel to date.

I see machines like the Worksharp (I actually own one, but would never use it on a knife) they can actually produce a keen edge, but at a cost. Yes these belt sander devices can provide a convex edge (which is a really good edge for certain types of knives), but these devises take off metal at an extremely difficult rate to control, and produce bevel issues, recurves, and if left in a spot too long or too many passes can even ruin the heat treat. I have heard the adds for pull through sharpeners, and they all state some BS like returns your knife to the factory or original sharpness...not only is that untrue, but why would you want to return to garbage? I've also seen people take their knives to so called professionals at knife stores, and watched these clowns pop the knife on a belt sander, wheel or a paper wheel on a table grinder. DO NOT HAND YOUR KNIFE TO THESE CLOWNS, if you care about the knife, or rely upon your knife!

The reality is you have several choices if you want a real edge on your knife. You can invest in a real knife sharpening system like the Edge Pro Apex or the Wicked Edge (I own the Wicked Edge but either is gtg) and invest both the money and time to master these devices. Another option, and one I always recommend is to get a good set of stones and learn to freehand, this is time consuming and costs a small amount of money (about $130 will get you started right). This path I would recommend beginning with the following and then build up from here: DMT Dia-sharp 6" dual sided stone with course on one side and fine on the other $65, Spyderco Ultra Fine 2"x8" stone $54, and a strop (JRE strop bats are nice as they are pre-loaded and 4 sides of grit $25). That setup will get you to razor sharp, and allow you to maintain edges for as long as the steel lasts. In the event you simply want to maintain a sharp edge and have zero intention of ever re-profiling or fixing any seriously damaged edges then a Spyderco Sharpmaker will do the job well (I recommend investing in the UF stones) accompanied by a strop. Lastly, you can simply send your knives to someone like me, and pay to have a true edge applied, and then merely buy a strop and maintain it. Good steel that isn't abused can make it quite a while with just stropping, if it begins with the correct bevel and is sharpened correctly.

I have a number of knives that all get regular use, but are all exceptionally sharp due to maintenance, good steel, and smart bevel geometry (most didn't come with good bevel geometry from the factory). In summation, if someone tries to sell you a gadget that will "restore your factory edge", or threatens to sharpen your knife to an "original factory edge", say no thanks, and keep on walking.

2016-06-24 19.54.33.jpg

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/c5u5hwgjs...pk7CUAica?dl=0

[JC5188]

I have been sharpening knives as more than just a hobby for a few years now, and "factory edge" is a term I hear about as much as this forum hears the the term "mil spec". I hear it from customers asking if I can restore their knives to factory sharp, or I hear vendors of sharpening equipment boast how they can bring knives back to that "original factory edge". Let state this one fact for all those that aren't aware....factory edges are complete garbage. Even the good knife manufacturers use either wheels or belts to sharpen their knives, and these methods create terribly imprecise edges with flat spots, low spots, bad angles, and edges that feel sharp because they are "toothy" not truly sharp.

I own, and have sharpened knives from Kershaw, CRKT, Lionsteel, Kizer, Spyderco, Benchmade, ZT, and many more, and except for a few full customs that are hand sharpened, they all are pretty inconsistent. I can tell you from experience that quite a lot goes into creating and maintaining a razor sharp edge. Things that make a knife truly sharp and maintain that edge are items such as the steel itself, the heat treat, the bevel angle, the blade design, and of course the sharpening method. Often a micro bevel is the way to go in truly "hard use" knives, as they return quicker to razor sharpness and provide a wider shoulder than the knife would have if it simply took the primary bevel to sharp. I have not seen a single factory knife with a micro bevel to date.

I see machines like the Worksharp (I actually own one, but would never use it on a knife) they can actually produce a keen edge, but at a cost. Yes these belt sander devices can provide a convex edge (which is a really good edge for certain types of knives), but these devises take off metal at an extremely difficult rate to control, and produce bevel issues, recurves, and if left in a spot too long or too many passes can even ruin the heat treat. I have heard the adds for pull through sharpeners, and they all state some BS like returns your knife to the factory or original sharpness...not only is that untrue, but why would you want to return to garbage? I've also seen people take their knives to so called professionals at knife stores, and watched these clowns pop the knife on a belt sander, wheel or a paper wheel on a table grinder. DO NOT HAND YOUR KNIFE TO THESE CLOWNS, if you care about the knife, or rely upon your knife!

The reality is you have several choices if you want a real edge on your knife. You can invest in a real knife sharpening system like the Edge Pro Apex or the Wicked Edge (I own the Wicked Edge but either is gtg) and invest both the money and time to master these devices. Another option, and one I always recommend is to get a good set of stones and learn to freehand, this is time consuming and costs a small amount of money (about $130 will get you started right). This path I would recommend beginning with the following and then build up from here: DMT Dia-sharp 6" dual sided stone with course on one side and fine on the other $65, Spyderco Ultra Fine 2"x8" stone $54, and a strop (JRE strop bats are nice as they are pre-loaded and 4 sides of grit $25). That setup will get you to razor sharp, and allow you to maintain edges for as long as the steel lasts. In the event you simply want to maintain a sharp edge and have zero intention of ever re-profiling or fixing any seriously damaged edges then a Spyderco Sharpmaker will do the job well (I recommend investing in the UF stones) accompanied by a strop. Lastly, you can simply send your knives to someone like me, and pay to have a true edge applied, and then merely buy a strop and maintain it. Good steel that isn't abused can make it quite a while with just stropping, if it begins with the correct bevel and is sharpened correctly.

I have a number of knives that all get regular use, but are all exceptionally sharp due to maintenance, good steel, and smart bevel geometry (most didn't come with good bevel geometry from the factory). In summation, if someone tries to sell you a gadget that will "restore your factory edge", or threatens to sharpen your knife to an "original factory edge", say no thanks, and keep on walking.

2016-06-24 19.54.33.jpg

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/c5u5hwgjs...pk7CUAica?dl=0

Those are pretty impressive, Jack. What do you charge to sharpen one up?

I can strop an edge back on a properly sharpened knife, but I excel at jacking them up where grinding is concerned. Consequently, I have several knives that I won't sharpen, and haven't let anybody touch.

Pm if you're interested...depends on price because most of mine are safe queens, but I do have a couple of edc's I'd like done properly


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[JackFanToM]

I'll shoot my price list :-)

[hotrodder636]

I have the a DMT diamond plate, bark river leather hone/strop but I fear ruining a good knife trying to put a proper edge on. I have bought some cheap knives to try to get the technique down but steel is not the same. Have thought about/wanted the Wicked edge.

Nice looking blades BTW...and how do you like the Ridge wallet? Looking at that one or a Keplero (if they ever actually come to market).

[JackFanToM]

Love the ridge wallet, if I do it again though I would do the band vs the clip to keep it low profile.

Suggestion when starting out free handing, don't be afraid of the sharpie, and practice with the fine side of the stone using light strokes. Try to mimic the existing bevel.

[Long Range Trigger Monkey]

A couple weeks ago I was at Smoky Mountain Knife Works while I was on vacation. Downstairs they have a counter where you can have knives sharpened for $2. My dad got it down and the guy did a pretty good job so I thought I'd have it done a few days later when we stopped in on our way home. Well, it wasn't the same guy that did my dad's knife and all I can say is that mouth breather cost me $2 and about 30 minutes or so while I fixed his f up. I'll just go back to sharpening my own.