So some of my buddies are wanting to get into 3 Gun/multigun and they ask what makes a rifle for gun different from a duty gun or regular everyday rifle. So I thought I'd do a video and write up on what I think are the easiest to get and arguably most important parts of a 3 gun rifle when you first start off.
Muzzle Brake
You need a brake to reduce recoil and keep your gun flat so you can make quick follow up shots or make up shots. Flash hiders have their place on a duty/HD rifle but not in this sport. I've had really good luck with surefire brakes and really enjoy them on the rifles I compete with. My suggestions for a brake would be Surefire, Lantac, and JP.
Trigger
We all know that the mil spec trigger works, but it's gritty, inconsistent, and can make a 300 yd shot more difficult than it needs to be. When you have a classifier or jungle run stage a good trigger for quick controlled pairs can make a big difference. Since 3 gun stages are varied and unpredictable you could be blasting paper targets then at the end you need to make a shot on a small plate at 300 yds so a trigger that is crisp can make a big difference. You'll see different trains of though on triggers some guys swear by two stages because of the longer shots and some run single stages. Having run both the Geissele SD3G and SSA-E I'll admit I prefer the SD3G hybrid/single stage. At times I catch myself with my SSA-E taking the slack on on targets that I just need to pull through like a single stage. That being said on a longer shot the SSA-E is more predictable when breaking a shot. My recommendations though are Geissele for two stages and their SD3G, Timney, and CMC.
Optic
In 3 Gun LPV's rule the world, the vast majority of rifles will be a 1-4 or 1-6. I've been saying this for 5 years now that the LPV's are the future of AR optics. They can be run at 1x like a dot and give you magnification to hit out to a realistic distance for an AR. You will see red dots in the factory division and for those I recommend a small dot because you may have to shoot a 6 inch plate at 300 yds and that isn't easy when your dot is covering the target. On your zero I recommend a 50 yd zero for your optic unless you have a BDC that says zero at 100. 25yd zeros will throw you off, the 50/200 zero eliminates the need to think, for a close in IDPA target aim neck and you'll hit chest. My choices for these style of optics would be any Trijicon 1-4/6, Vortex strike eagle or razor, and leupold 1-4/6.
You can get away with not having a match barrel early on but I recommend a quality stainless or CHF barrel from Noveske, FN, WOA, JP, or rainier. The more accurate your gun is the better. Also make sure you use a free float tube, you see all sort from troy, BCM, Midwest Ind, etc etc. Usually people run them without a grip or handstop but I prefer a short foregrip to brace into a barricade and having a short foregrip is just my style of shooting. having a solid stock helps so either go with a fixed or a collapsible stock with a lock like magpul or the rogers super stock. Billet vs forged doesn't really matter, I prefer forged because it's lighter and cheaper.
These are just my thoughts and opinions and I would love to hear what you guys think goes into a proper rifle for a beginner all the way up to advanced. I would love to pics of your guns too.
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