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Member
I'm ty50, new, and haven't introduced myself yet. So hello M4 people.
I have an aimpoint H1 on top of a 2A Armament upper, and a Spikes lower, with a 14.5" pencil from Faxon.
With my BUIS, and a laser device for zeroing out the end of the barrel, the laser is well below my iron sights to where i can not get it dialed in even with the elev adjuster.
This occurs even while NOT attatched to the lower.
I'm assuming my barrel and upper are not squared perfectly. Is that a good place to start?
Senior Member
To properly zero, you must assemble and shoot the gun, prefereably with the same ammo you intend to shoot the majority of the time.
A boresight(er) is just to hopefully get you on paper to start.
Industry Professional/Moderator
I am betting that you are trying to laser boresight at too close of a distance, or are improperly trying to achieve zero. Did you read your LBS instructions?
Laser boresighting generally should be done at not closer than 10 meters, and even then, the laser will be distinctly under the aiming device. This is because the barrel launches the projectile upward in relation to the sights (when held traditionally), so that the trajectory of the projectile meets the line of sight at the zero distance. If you have point of aim and point of impact coincidence at 10 meters, your trajectory is going to be crazy high for anything actually inside the effective range of the rifle.
Member
Thanx for replies. I do likely need more distance wich i can try tonight. Thanx again for insight.
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Try using these targets. https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread...t-EOTech-etc-)
Gettin' down innagrass.
Let's Go Brandon!
Member
Good to have u on here. There is so Mich information on this site if u type it in on the search bar. Search for Zen of the 100 meter zero and read up. Great stuff there. Also there is no substitute for going out and shooting. Put the bore sight away and shoot the thing. Good luckOriginally Posted by ty50
Site Sponsor
Zen of the 100 Meter Zero
Also:
AR-15 Zeros and Trajectories
Gettin' down innagrass.
Let's Go Brandon!
Member
So the "issue" is with your Iron Sights, not the Aimpoint, correct? If the irons are the concern, I'd want to make sure you're changing the elevation by adjusting the Front Sight Post, not the rear sight. When you say the "elev adjuster", it makes me think your rear BUIS has an elevation drum; like found on a carry handle. If your rear BUIS does have an elevation adjustment, that's only supposed to be used after you've zeroed the rifle. The actual Zeroing is done using the windage adjustment on the rear sight and adjusting the height of your FSP. Does that make sense? Maybe I'm stating the obvious; and this didn't need to be mentioned. But, given the "elev adjuster" comment, I feel it's worth noting.
The links titsonritz provided are excellent. As others mentioned, the laser bore sighting will really only get you on paper. Taking it out to the range is the only way to truly zero the rifle. Although, with a ballistics calculator, a quick measurement or two, and a little bit of simple math, you could get a lot closer to your desired zero before actually firing the first shot. Especially if you are limited to a very short distance when doing your initial "zero" at home.
"I actually managed to figure this one out: you've got to find a woman who loves God more than she loves you -- albeit just barely."
-Army Chief
I did not know the man quoted above, and joined this Forum after his passing. He seemed to be a leader of men; both spiritually and physically. Someone we'd all be proud to emulate.
Senior Member
I'll try to explain as I understand it...
Irons are well above the bore on an AR compared to a traditional rifle. At 10 yards, the laser bore sight "poi" will be significantly below the actual sight's "poa", whereas they are relatively close on a traditional rifle.
The links provided above outline the proper zeroing of an AR.
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