Need Help! My AAC QD is completely locked up.

[amac]

Yes - AAC will help you out 770.925.9988

Their recommendation is a complete soak in either Kroil or Simple Green. Was told there is a very high probability (99.99% chance) the rocksete will give away before the carbon buildup. Thus, my flash hider will likely be lodged in the can and then I'll be sending the whole mess to AAC for removal. Hoping for a better outcome.

[amac]

Quick update... I turned the suppressor removal over to my friend that wanted the challenge. I'll post his video later, but in short he wrapped the suppressor / connector area with tinfoil and then heated with a light torch. He used what looks like rubber padded vice grips and gave it a good turn and the seal gave way. He said there was no audible pop or crack of the carbon buildup, but just a very tight sludge to turn through. Before attempting to remove the mini can, he did attempt to shoot a few more rounds. The first and only round he shot failed to eject. After working it out, he found a lot of residue and carbon fouling in the chamber area. The thought is the kroil I've been applying had broken down the crud and loosened up the carbon residue.

Now the clean up begins. He is cleaning the barrel and muzzle brake. He doesn't want to touch the internals of the can. My new question is how to properly clean the internals? My thought is to soak the can for 24 hours or so in Simple Green. After that, how would I or do I need to clean off the cleaner?

Thanks again for all the input and feedback thus far.

[scottryan]

This is the answer to your problems

http://www.logix-mrop.com/productVie...SMART+(6X16OZ)

[mtdawg169]

This is the answer to your problems

http://www.logix-mrop.com/productVie...SMART+(6X16OZ)

Thank you! I've never had an issue with my M42K, until a week ago. I ran it on a friend's select fire lower. About 90 rounds, let it cool and put it away. It's locked up pretty good. I'll be using this from now on.

[amac]

This is the answer to your problems

http://www.logix-mrop.com/productVie...SMART+(6X16OZ)

The guys at AAC discouraged the use of anti-seize for fear of the can backing off. My confusion is where the carbon is actually building up and creating a seal - inside the teeth of the 51t system, or the 2 wide spread threads before it reaches that? I thought it was the threads, not the teeth. That seems to be where the crud builds up when I've cleaned my brake in the past.

[mtdawg169]

The guys at AAC discouraged the use of anti-seize for fear of the can backing off. My confusion is where the carbon is actually building up and creating a seal - inside the teeth of the 51t system, or the 2 wide spread threads before it reaches that? I thought it was the threads, not the teeth. That seems to be where the crud builds up when I've cleaned my brake in the past.

That doesn't say much for their faith in their own locking system.

[Jwknutson17]

I don't see how it would back off unless the MD is missing teeth or the latch is worn. I use anti seize on mine and have too many rounds to count, and has never backed off on its own.

[Hkbeltfed]

FWIW, I've found suppressor sticking is not a carbon problem, but a copper problem. This muzzle brake was black with carbon until I soda blasted it and found it was molten copper from bullet jackets "welding" the can on. Now, I'm using silicone oil on the muzzle device and mount, removing it warm, and not having issues.

[Wallace's]

Interesting

[Buckaroo]

Any chance that a brake causes more copper fouling? Or more fouling in general?

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