Jumping on the duracoat bandwagon.

[ISiman/oh]

Ordered a Multicam kit this weekend and some stencils. Will be applying with a cheap airbrush (hopefully if it's works well enough).

I know prep is key but does anybody have any tips to share?

I will be doing my SPR type rifle that I use for coyote hunting.


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[Long Range Trigger Monkey]

I like Duracoat, it's pretty easy to use, the finish is pretty good, it's no Ceracoat, but it is durable, and air dries pretty easy. I mean it's pretty hard to argue with a product that is chemical resistant, comes in a multitude of colors, and you can reassemble your firearm the next day. Definitely take your time with prep, if you are painting anodized aluminum you should only have to degrease the parts, the anodizing is already pretty porous and the Duracoat will adhere well. If you are doing a steel barrel too rough it up with a scotch brite pad or similar. Duracoat sells a degreaser that works really well but I've always used Acetone from the hardware store without any ill effects, just be sure to use a clean rag and get all the nooks and crannies. One thing that I've found helps is to do the paint job in a heated and ventilated space and also have a blow dryer or heat gun handy to heat up the parts before application and during to help the paint flash off. It's been my experience that it helps the first couple of coats adhere and in the end will give the matte and flat paints a better finish. I remember the first time I did a duracoat job it was in the garage of our new house, there was no heat, I tried to set up some space heaters but they weren't working so I charged ahead. In the end the job came out looking like crap, the paint didn't adhere, I was light in some areas and could see barrel steel, it was shiny when it was supposed to be matt. I stripped it down and started over by going to my parents' house where their garage was easier to vent and heat up and making sure I took my time. In the end the job came out great and the finish lasted quite well until five years later when I had the gun rebuilt and blasted. I will also suggest that you do the painting in some place with really good lighting, it sucks to do it a dimly lit area and then when you're all done you realize that the paint went on lighter than you thought and you see speckles from where the finish is thin.

[Gunfixr]

Prep is key.
The surface must be clean.
It will stick to rougher surfaces better than smoother ones. Flat anodizing, as opposed to shiny. Parkerizing is a good base for it. You can rough with scotchbrite, emery cloth will be better. Aluminum oxide blasting is best. Glass bead blasting is to be avoided, just scotchbrite it.
The surface must be clean.
Don't touch with fingers after degreasing.
Spray in relatively low humidity. Warm room is good, you can preheat parts if that's not available, just keep the duracoat in at least room temp. Too warm and it will start to harden in the jar after mixing.
The surface must be clean.

Oh, BTW, you can speed cure it at 150-160 degrees for an hour. If you use the oven in the house, it will smell, but it will dissipate and not leave odor behind in the oven if you leave the door open for awhile. Put it on heavy paper or cardboard, on the racks.

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[ISiman/oh]

Thanks for the tips so far guys! My shipment should be in this week and I will start the process. I will keep updates and progress in this post. Time to start the disassembly and degreasing process.


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[GoRebels]

Too glossy for me and the most recent aerosol can I purchased was a dud..............

[Gunfixr]

Aerosol can?
Never used that, used the two-part.
If talking about canned air, I have a compressor.

If using canned air, do not let the can tip over. You then get liquid. Take your time, to reduce humidity in the canned air.

Compressor is best, with inline dryer.

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[lysander]

Aerosol can?
Never used that, used the two-part.
If talking about canned air, I have a compressor.

If using canned air, do not let the can tip over. You then get liquid. Take your time, to reduce humidity in the canned air.

Compressor is best, with inline dryer.

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They sell an aerosol can with a two part chamber, break the inner seal and the two parts mix inside the aerosol can.

I found it worked surprising well, and made for an easy clean-up. The same rules apply as to ensuring the parts mix well, cleaning, heating, drying, etc, as the two part liquid stuff.

[Long Range Trigger Monkey]

I just got done doing a little refinishing job on an old shotgun using the aerosol spray and for that kind of project it worked great. All of the prep is the same but the spray can made it pretty convenient to basically just spray it like I would a can of Krylon, albeit with a more durable finish at the end. I had just enough paint to refinish a 28" barreled action, magazine latch, magazine guide, bolt body, trigger, and some other small parts, in addition to a Marlin Model 60 receiver. The finish came out a nice matte black, looks good, I'm debating stripping down a chassis and refinishing it too over the winter.

[Gunfixr]

They sell an aerosol can with a two part chamber, break the inner seal and the two parts mix inside the aerosol can.

I found it worked surprising well, and made for an easy clean-up. The same rules apply as to ensuring the parts mix well, cleaning, heating, drying, etc, as the two part liquid stuff.

Oh. It's been a number of years since I used duracoat, they didn't sell it like that back then.

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[nova3930]

I just got done doing a little refinishing job on an old shotgun using the aerosol spray and for that kind of project it worked great. All of the prep is the same but the spray can made it pretty convenient to basically just spray it like I would a can of Krylon, albeit with a more durable finish at the end. I had just enough paint to refinish a 28" barreled action, magazine latch, magazine guide, bolt body, trigger, and some other small parts, in addition to a Marlin Model 60 receiver. The finish came out a nice matte black, looks good, I'm debating stripping down a chassis and refinishing it too over the winter.

My uncle gave me some old shotguns to refinish including a turd of a S&W 916. Was thinking about using the Brownells gunkote in spray can form on it....