Results 1 to 10 of 10

Thread: M&P M2.0 Sear and Trigger Bar changes

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    12
    Feedback Score
    0

    M&P M2.0 Sear and Trigger Bar changes

    I just finished detail stripping the M2.0 and doing my standard tune up on it. I should of taken pictures while I had everything apart. Here's the best I can do assembled.
    #1 is the nub that engages the striker block. However, now it also engages the sear. The sear is now 2 parts. The 2nd part is #2. It is held in place by the sear pin and the lobe that used to be engaged by the trigger bar loop. It's like a C clip with a hood. The sears *appear* to be the same 1.0/2.0, but the lobe on the 2.0 now only appears to serve as an anchor point for the new sear part which is the actual sear engagement point.
    It will be interesting to see what APEX does with the 2.0. There's nothing to be done with the lobe now, it plays much less of a role in trigger feel. The back of the sear where the striker is held could be improved for trigger weight, but the break is pretty darn crisp. Even after cleaning mine up it still breaks at 5.4 lbs, a bit on the heavy side for my liking.
    The striker block definitely needs cleaning up, felt and sounded like gravel. I reshaped and cleaned mine up and it as good as the APEX part now. However, it appears to be made of a much softer metal than before, maybe even aluminum. I intended to put a magnet on it while I had it out, but never came back to it. So an APEX USB would still be a worthy upgrade.

    The 2nd picture below is with the trigger pulled so sear engagement can be seen.





    This picture came from the beararms blog and shows the "C clip" in the sear block better.

    Last edited by tul9033; 01-13-17 at 13:06.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    FL
    Posts
    185
    Feedback Score
    9 (100%)
    Thank you for the pictures. I noticed the same thing on my 2.0. I wonder how much help the Apex sear would be now for the trigger characteristics.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Posts
    748
    Feedback Score
    2 (100%)
    Quote Originally Posted by tul9033 View Post
    I just finished detail stripping the M2.0 and doing my standard tune up on it. I should of taken pictures while I had everything apart. Here's the best I can do assembled.
    #1 is the nub that engages the striker block. However, now it also engages the sear. The sear is now 2 parts. The 2nd part is #2. It is held in place by the sear pin and the lobe that used to be engaged by the trigger bar loop. It's like a C clip with a hood. The sears *appear* to be the same 1.0/2.0, but the lobe on the 2.0 now only appears to serve as an anchor point for the new sear part which is the actual sear engagement point.
    It will be interesting to see what APEX does with the 2.0. There's nothing to be done with the lobe now, it plays much less of a role in trigger feel. The back of the sear where the striker is held could be improved for trigger weight, but the break is pretty darn crisp. Even after cleaning mine up it still breaks at 5.4 lbs, a bit on the heavy side for my liking.
    The striker block definitely needs cleaning up, felt and sounded like gravel. I reshaped and cleaned mine up and it as good as the APEX part now. However, it appears to be made of a much softer metal than before, maybe even aluminum. I intended to put a magnet on it while I had it out, but never came back to it. So an APEX USB would still be a worthy upgrade.

    The 2nd picture below is with the trigger pulled so sear engagement can be seen.





    This picture came from the beararms blog and shows the "C clip" in the sear block better.

    My newest "original" M&P was the same way. Haven't had an issue with it yet but I noticed it as well. Thanks for the report.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    8
    Feedback Score
    0
    I wonder if it would be possible to fit the new trigger assembly into the old M&Ps. I assume it would take a new trigger, trigger bar, the new sear assembly, and a new rear block (assuming the new block will fit the old frame). One I cracked open didn't look like they changed much internally on the slide except the slide stop. If they didn't change the external dimensions of the rear block I can imagine it might be possible.

    I shot one and really liked the new trigger. If it's possible to retrofit the old guns with the new parts I can see that breathing some new life into them. No matter what I did I couldn't get along with the 1.0. But this 2.0 is something different altogether.

    The only reason I think I might consider fitting a 2.0 fire control group to a 1.0 is for conceal carry since I can anticipate that new rougher texture really chewing up my skin when moving around for hours held close to the body.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    12
    Feedback Score
    0
    I suspect the block is the same and I'm almost certain the sear is the same as the later 1.0 revisions. S&W started using sears with a tear shaped lobe instead of an oval a few years back. You should only need a trigger bar and the little C part.
    The texture can be smoothed out with fine grit sandpaper to knock the sharp edges off.

    Quote Originally Posted by Kenobi View Post
    I wonder if it would be possible to fit the new trigger assembly into the old M&Ps. I assume it would take a new trigger, trigger bar, the new sear assembly, and a new rear block (assuming the new block will fit the old frame). One I cracked open didn't look like they changed much internally on the slide except the slide stop. If they didn't change the external dimensions of the rear block I can imagine it might be possible.

    I shot one and really liked the new trigger. If it's possible to retrofit the old guns with the new parts I can see that breathing some new life into them. No matter what I did I couldn't get along with the 1.0. But this 2.0 is something different altogether.

    The only reason I think I might consider fitting a 2.0 fire control group to a 1.0 is for conceal carry since I can anticipate that new rougher texture really chewing up my skin when moving around for hours held close to the body.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    8
    Feedback Score
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by tul9033 View Post
    I suspect the block is the same and I'm almost certain the sear is the same as the later 1.0 revisions. S&W started using sears with a tear shaped lobe instead of an oval a few years back. You should only need a trigger bar and the little C part.
    The texture can be smoothed out with fine grit sandpaper to knock the sharp edges off.
    I imagine you're right.

    I don't have one of the CORE optics ready pistols but I could imagine wanting to upgrade to the new trigger group if I did, rather than having to buy a whole new pistol when they finally release the CORE 2.0


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,751
    Feedback Score
    22 (100%)
    So how does the new trigger compare to an apex trigger or performance center trigger? From what Ive heard they are barely better than the newer production M&Ps and reset still sucks.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    West Virginia
    Posts
    97
    Feedback Score
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by vicious_cb View Post
    So how does the new trigger compare to an apex trigger or performance center trigger? From what Ive heard they are barely better than the newer production M&Ps and reset still sucks.
    My 2.0 feels almost identical to my M&P with an Apex DCAEK. The reset is stronger. I can't say if it's great or sucks because it would be hard for me to care less about reset.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    8
    Feedback Score
    0
    I'm interested to know how the new solid frame pins operate compared to the old roll pins. Are they mechanically locked somehow or are they retained by friction? Also the new slide stop spring mechanism, is it user serviceable, or is it permanently attached to the frame somehow where, if it needs replacement, it'll have to go back to S&W?

    I really like the new M&P but I'd really like to see a detailed tear down video before buying one myself.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Posts
    71
    Feedback Score
    0
    Any idea what the little circle mark at the front of the sear is? My 2.0 45 has it, but none of my 1.0 pistols have that mark.

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •