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Thread: GP100 or 686

  1. #41
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    Take a look at the Ruger Match Champion. Ruger trimmed it down a bit so it doesn't look so blocky as the regular GP. If I hadn't found my early 686 I'd have the Match Champion.

  2. #42
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    The best answer from my view is to look for older used smiths. I am more of a k frame guy, and all of mine are late 60's or older. With patience an older pre lock gun can be found cheaper than new and with revolvers that have been in production for decades I see no point at all in buying new.the one exception here is newer variations that were not made in the past. For example the 8shot 9mm or 10 shot 22's. I detest stainless steel and wish smith would bring out some of these newer variants blued

  3. #43
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    Don't get me wrong, the GP100 is a good quality gun, and much like the sp101 it's build like a tank, but to me the 686 is a step above ad would be my personal choice.

  4. #44
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    Current production 686's would not be my first choice over current production GP100's. If you can find a 686 from the last two generations prior to the introduction of the internal lock (686-2 / 686-3, some 686-4's) they are excellent revolvers and superior to the GP100 of any vintage. They also likely can be found for lower prices than S&W is charging now.

  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by oregon45 View Post
    Current production 686's would not be my first choice over current production GP100's. If you can find a 686 from the last two generations prior to the introduction of the internal lock (686-2 / 686-3, some 686-4's) they are excellent revolvers and superior to the GP100 of any vintage. They also likely can be found for lower prices than S&W is charging now.
    100% agree.

  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by SeriousStudent View Post
    I own both. I have a 3" blued GP100 in .357, and a 4" 686-5.

    This may sound weird, but how big are your hands? If you have a challenge with a longer trigger reach, the Ruger is easier to adapt to. If you have larger hands, I'll recommend a 686.

    I think it's easier to find someone to do decent work on a Smith trigger. That being said, after about 2,000 trigger presses in dry practice sessions, my 686 has a very acceptable trigger.

    Last year, I did all six of my pistol training classes with a revolver, shooting it double action. That's a fair bit of work, doing 600-800 rounds DAO. The Smith was easier to do that with.

    So what will be the purpose of the pistol? Fun range gun? Loaner for people who do not shoot a lot? Trainer?

    I would say the Ruger makes a great loaner, especially with the compact grips.
    I just saw this older post. You did high round count training with a revolver? I've been thinking about doing that but I don't want to slow everybody else down. What was it like? Did you ask the instructor first?

  7. #47
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    686 if you can find one without the Clinton sell-out trigger lock, otherwise, the GP100.

    Either gun is a great choice, which you've probably figured out yourself by now.

    Full disclosure ... I have the GP100 with the Davidson's exclusive 5" barrel. Love it, will never sell it.

    Reason I say the 686 w/out trigger lock is that will really hold value well, is a bit more rare and desirable
    * Just Your Average Jewish Redneck *
    Participant in Year-Long Gun Fighting Training Program
    Competition Shooter in NRA, CMP, IDPA
    Past part-time sales at national firearms retailer, Never came close to breaking even!

  8. #48
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    I own both, the lock on the 686 is a non issue and from the intra-webs it seems like people "won't ever buy it" because of a personal principle as opposed to it impacting functionality of the firearm. Both are quality firearms and shoot well. For me it comes down to aesthetics if I had to pick one over the other. I like the look of the 686 more than the GP100. Either one would serve you well if your life depended on it.
    Last edited by charger02; 08-27-17 at 15:44. Reason: grammar

  9. #49
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    SW lock ... plenty of people don't want to buy it because they don't want to have to check the tighteness before and / or after shooting. That's likely overkill relative to the number of failures, but if it's going to be an SD gun, not so much of an overkill .. peace of mind checking it beats it accidentally locking your gun when you need it the most.
    * Just Your Average Jewish Redneck *
    Participant in Year-Long Gun Fighting Training Program
    Competition Shooter in NRA, CMP, IDPA
    Past part-time sales at national firearms retailer, Never came close to breaking even!

  10. #50
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    I'm surprised the OP hasn't bought something yet. After decades with both a 686 & a GP100, the GP is still awaiting its first issue, and the 686 has been tweaked a few times, and needs a major overhaul. S&W internal parts are surface hardened, whereas Rugers appear to be through hardened. I did the triggers on both guns, and while the Rugers DA trigger pull is a mite longer than the Smiffs, it is at least as smooth as the Smiff, if not a touch smoother. The 686 had a better SA pull from the factory, but the Rugers SA pull cleaned up beautifully. So in the longevity portion of our test, the Ruger wins easily. The 686 is in need of its third hand in roughly 20 years, and the friggin' endshake at the crane and at the cylinder are out again. Both guns live on mid-range loads, and eat the same food. Rugers cast frame is heavier, but uses through pins instead of studs for the hammer & trigger, and that seems to be a big advantage as well. Smiths still using the same basic design they came out with in the late 1800s, and Rugers design is designed using modern materials made in modern factories. Nostalgia only carries you so far in a results driven world.
    “Detached Reflection Cannot Be Demanded in the Presence of an Uplifted Knife” ~ Brown v. United States (1921)

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