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Thread: Gas-port regulating gas-block insert install and DIY manufacture.

  1. #31
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    Way awesome

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by lysander View Post
    Thanks for the link!

    "Inconel 718

    Inconel 718, UNS N07718, is the most common grade of the hardenable Inconels. This precipitation-hardened nickel-chromium alloy combines outstanding corrosion resistance and high strength at elevated temperatures. The alloy is a about 2x as strong as Inconel 625 having excellent creep-rupture strength at temperatures to 1300°F (700°C) and usable up to 1800°F (982°C). Inconel 718 is often used in gas turbines, rocket motors, spacecraft, nuclear reactors, pumps, and tooling. "

    I think I have read somewhere (SilencerShop?) that Knight's QDC silencers are made of inconel 718 (weldable).

    I think I will email that site to get a quote for 5/32" (.156") tall, 10-32 threaded, inconel 718, cup-tip, socket-head set-screws. Anticipating it being cost prohibitive. One site I found when just looking for 10-32 inconel screws had some machine screws for $123 each, and I would still have to use the same process on them as the ones I found on ebay for cheap (almost suspiciously cheap...). I have no way of knowing if the ebay screws are actual 718 inconel for $15 per 25 but they sure are though to machine and the packaging says made in USA.
    Last edited by jerrysimons; 03-22-17 at 22:02.

  3. #33
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    I'm not tracking on this whole idea at all. If you are already using a lo pro gas block... just run an adjustable! Not sure what the inconel need is. I'm running several plain old stainless inserts and they show now measurable wear.

    There is no need to run an insertable port on a lo pro block.
    "What would a $2,000 Geissele Super Duty do that a $500 PSA door buster on Black Friday couldn't do?" - Stopsign32v

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by markm View Post
    I'm not tracking on this whole idea at all. If you are already using a lo pro gas block... just run an adjustable! Not sure what the inconel need is. I'm running several plain old stainless inserts and they show now measurable wear.

    There is no need to run an insertable port on a lo pro block.
    I see the appeal of removing any potential failure points associated with adj gas blocks.

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by jpmuscle View Post
    I see the appeal of removing any potential failure points associated with adj gas blocks.
    That being what?
    Quote Originally Posted by JSantoro View Post
    Stop dicking the dog, please. It's gross.

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by markm View Post
    I'm not tracking on this whole idea at all. If you are already using a lo pro gas block... just run an adjustable! Not sure what the inconel need is. I'm running several plain old stainless inserts and they show now measurable wear.

    There is no need to run an insertable port on a lo pro block.
    Well, I see your point, but sometimes a non-adjustable, lo-pro gas block is preferred. For example, Noveske barrels come with lo-pro gas-blocks already pinned on and they need regulation badly, why not keep the pinned GB and use a BRT insert instead of set-screwing an adjustable in place? Also there are certain free-float rails where I have found SLR Riflework's Sentry series gas-blocks will not clear; Hodge Defense/Mega Arms Wedgelock rail is one example and benefit from the SLR GB7 reduced dimension gas-block intended for extra-thin rails. Then there are titanium gas-blocks for ultralight builds where every tenth ounce is counted. My titanium SLR Sentry 6 .625" GB weighs .9oz, my Battle Arms Development .625" titanium GB w/ stainless steel insert weighs .5oz, it adds up when you have goals.

    An argument can also be made that gas-port regulating gas-block inserts like BRT's CustomTune inserts are a much more robust method of regulation and more suitable for a duty-grade/go-to-war rifle than an adjustable gas-block that relies on springs and detents and where the adjustment gets fouled. These inserts are stupid simple in operation as long as you got the right size hole initially.

    I have read your thread about inserts, you are further down the road then I am and I am glad to hear reports after years of successful use. I know stainless steel is sufficient for practical use or BRT wouldn't be successful, but while I am having fun making my own I might also indulge in dabbling with bomb proof and the overdone - for the warm and fuzzies...
    Last edited by jerrysimons; 03-22-17 at 22:57.

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ryno12 View Post
    That being what?
    Stuff breaks?

  8. #38
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    Jerry, not to dissuade you from using Inconel inserts, but keep in mind, the inserts are subjected to much lower pressure and gas velocity than the barrel port.

    Start your drilling with a center drill, especially if using a drill press or an end mill. Drill the hole, the cut the slot, then cut the thread. Make yourself some jigs to hold the bolt during drilling and cutting. Get some kind of cutting fluid. I use blue paste Boelube at work and it works well
    The number of folks on my Full Of Shit list grows everyday

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  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by MistWolf View Post
    Jerry, not to dissuade you from using Inconel inserts, but keep in mind, the inserts are subjected to much lower pressure and gas velocity than the barrel port.

    Start your drilling with a center drill, especially if using a drill press or an end mill. Drill the hole, the cut the slot, then cut the thread. Make yourself some jigs to hold the bolt during drilling and cutting. Get some kind of cutting fluid. I use blue paste Boelube at work and it works well
    Thanks Mist. You started me on this road with your encouragement!

    Yeah I know Inconel is overkill. I like overkill. And if I succeed it will be cool to know it is a custom made Inconel insert. That said, Tom12.7 mentioned the point of insufficient heat transfer from the fine threaded insert to the gas-block potentially increasing the rate of insert erosion due to retained high temps. But I think this is mostly a theoretical concern and BRT CustomTune users have not had any practical issues using their, presumably, stainless steel inserts hard. Since I don't expect anyone to go on record who is qualified on the matter (though Tom12.7 certainly knows a thing or two) and since I am just a hobbiest, the best way I have to overcome theoretical concerns is to simply over do it as cost effective as possible.
    So far I am pretty happy with the results but if I wasn't able to find cheep Inconel 10-32 bolts it would be a non-starter. I was pretty happy with the shortened 1/4" stainless inserts with the deeper regulating hole. It was much easier to machine and no problems with the socket portion like trying to cut a flat head slot on the Inconel sections.

    I made a jig, in the pics in early posts. I have been using WD40 corrosion inhibitor for cutting fluid, which is sticky and bubbly. I like how it keeps the chips from flying and wipes up easy. Would actual cutting fluid work better?
    Last edited by jerrysimons; 03-23-17 at 15:19.

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by jerrysimons View Post
    Thanks Mist. You started me this road with your encouragement!

    Yeah I know Inconel is overkill. I like overkill. And if I succeed it will be cool to know it is a custom made Inconel insert. That said Tom12.7 mentioned the point of insufficient heat transfer from the fine threaded insert to the gas-block potentially increasing the rate of insert erosion due to retained high temps. But I think this is mostly a theoretical concern and BRT CustomTune users have not had any practical issues using their, presumably, stainless steel inserts hard. Since I don't expect anyone to go on record who is qualified on the matter (though Tom12.7 certainly knows a thing or two) and since I am just a hobbiest, the best way I have to overcome theoretical concerns is to simply over do it as cost effective as possible.
    So far I am pretty happy with the results but if I wasn't able to find cheep Inconel 10-32 bolts it would be a non starter. I was pretty happy with the shortened 1/4" stainless inserts with the deeper regulating hole much easier to machine and no problems with the socket portion like trying to cut a flat head slot on the inconels.

    I made a jig, early post show it. I have been using WD40 corrosion inhibitor which is sticky and bubbly for curing fluid. I like how it keeps the chips from flying and whips up easy. Would actual cutting fluid work better?
    Get real cutting oil, it makes a difference. You can get thread cutting oil at home depot for not too much and it will work way better than wd40.

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