Securing pistol silencer with oring *Update*

[Ryno12]

Everything gets loose. I blue lock tighted the booster housing. Oring should take care of the can, I will probably start putting vibratight on the piston where it threads into the housing.

Man, I have a bear of a time removing my booster &/or the piston retainer after shooting. When I read in the manual that they recommend thread locker, I thought they're insane. I even started oiling the threads when I reassemble the can after cleaning. That seems to help but just barely. The can stays put on the barrel too.

I wonder why such a difference.

[BigWaylon]

Couple things. I originally did this for the thread protector, as it gets loose while wearing iwb for long periods.

2nd, if your afraid of misalignment, this is a 1/16th oring that fits in a bevel at the back of the piston. The silencer still bottoms out on the shoulder and the oring cannot be seen once installed, but it makes the can difficult to unscrew for the first 4-5 turns.

Or is there another reason you wouldnt use an oring? Hoping to get out tomorrow or next weekend.

This is a standard thread piston/barrel setup? Or metric. Most metric pistons have an o-ring inside them for this purpose...but the barrels have a section made to mate to the o-ring.

I guess I'm not picturing exactly where you're putting it. If it's contacting the threads, I personally wouldn't do it. If it's not, so that the threads are untouched and the piston is in full contact with the shoulder (as you mentioned), it may be OK.

[MegademiC]

This is a standard thread piston/barrel setup? Or metric. Most metric pistons have an o-ring inside them for this purpose...but the barrels have a section made to mate to the o-ring.

I guess I'm not picturing exactly where you're putting it. If it's contacting the threads, I personally wouldn't do it. If it's not, so that the threads are untouched and the piston is in full contact with the shoulder (as you mentioned), it may be OK.

There is a threadless area just before the shoulder, and the piston bevels out slightly so the oring fits right in there.

I'll post a pic later. It's a 1/2-28. It's a storm lake 40 to 9 conversion barrel.

[diving dave]

I use a viton O ring on my FNX 45 to hold the thread protector in place, and leave it there when installing my Osprey.. So far no issue

[Todd.K]

You need to make sure there is thread relief on both the barrel and the piston. In other words make sure the O-ring doesn't touch the threads of either, and it's fine.

I use a 1mm O-ring on my 1/2-28 22LR, it's not as tight as a 1/16". I would try both as it will depend on how tight you want it and the diameters of your barrel and piston.

[MegademiC]

Gap in threads and bevel in piston:


Gap when installed:


Oring in gap:


Oring installed and silencer secured:



Won't make it out this weekend, it will be next.

[MegademiC]

Update:

Just got back from the range a little bit ago.

As mentioned - before, I used to have to re-tighten the silencer every 10-15 rounds.
I think I blue lock-tighted (can that be a verb?) the piston housing because it didn't loosen. Yes I have a terrible memory - especially for my age!
Today I shot 100rounds without the can loosening at all. No end-cap strikes. I compared accuracy with and without the can and they were close enough for me to say there was not discernible impact.

I used some cheap O-rings with unknown material but it held up to the heat fine.
I removed and re-attached the silencer a few times before going to the range, and 2x at the range and shot a few more through it. It just started loosening after another 30 rounds at about 1round per sec. The barrel was very hot and the oring had become quite soft.

Conclusion:
It works, but check your setup and verify its not affecting how coencentric the silencer is to the bore.
If you want to shoot high round counts that get the barrel super hot - I'd suggest Viton or Peroxide-Cured EPDM. Expanded PTFE would work great as well, but have no idea if anyone even offers orings with that yet.

Ill update this week after checking out my chemical compatability chart (at work - I need to print one out for the "workshop" at home) for other materials I want to make sure next purchase is something that holds up to organics as well as heat.

Anything else I missed?

[foxtrotx1]

Mine also unscrews easily. Then again, each compartment unscrews easily. The end cap, the booster etc.

I sent mine back to the factory for repeated end cap strikes with factory ammunition on two different guns. Got it back, first outing.... more end cap strikes. I need to send it in again.

[Kenneth]

I do the "pop" method (have no idea it that's what it's called).

I unscrew the can about a 1/2 turn and the put it in between my hand and spin it. It snaps on the barrel and is tight.

I haven't had mine back off yet.


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