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Thread: Help me find some new fangled FSB bench block (for FSB removals)?

  1. #11
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    Don't waste your time. I posted about the method I use and it has been working for years. Apparently the search function doesn't work.

    Quote Originally Posted by C4IGrant View Post
    Hmm, I think I might need to ask why we need this and then (maybe share my wisdom on removing pins)??


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  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by C4IGrant View Post
    Hmm, I think I might need to ask why we need this and then (maybe share my wisdom on removing pins)??


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    Ive used Iraqgunz's method as well as what has worked well for me (putting the barrel on a wooden block on the concrete floor), but I would appreciate you sharing your method if you wouldn't mind.
    Last edited by dentron; 03-07-17 at 21:26. Reason: Forgot quote

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iraqgunz View Post
    Don't waste your time. I posted about the method I use and it has been working for years. Apparently the search function doesn't work.
    Ok, I will sit and drink my bourbon then.


    C4


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  4. #14
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    I know Gunz smacks taper pins with a big punch to break them loose. And then switches to a pin diameter specific punch.

    I think the biggest challenge for many of us is getting a SOLID foundation to beat these things out on... especially when the hand guard cap is on the barrel. My best option had been clamping the bayo stud in my vise.
    "What would a $2,000 Geissele Super Duty do that a $500 PSA door buster on Black Friday couldn't do?" - Stopsign32v

  5. #15
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    I typically use this. I clamp the barrel from the front or behind the FSB depending on profile, etc...Then I use the largest punch in the set and smack the pins hard (in a shocking motion). 98% of the time they loosen within the first few strikes. I have done this with Colt, BCM, SIONICS, Bushmaster, and Stag.

    http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-to....aspx?psize=96



    Quote Originally Posted by markm View Post
    I know Gunz smacks taper pins with a big punch to break them loose. And then switches to a pin diameter specific punch.

    I think the biggest challenge for many of us is getting a SOLID foundation to beat these things out on... especially when the hand guard cap is on the barrel. My best option had been clamping the bayo stud in my vise.



    Owner/Instructor at Semper Paratus Arms

    Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/SemperParatusArms/

    Semper Paratus Arms AR15 Armorer Course http://www.semperparatusarms.com/cou...-registration/

    M4C Misc. Training and Course Announcements- http://www.m4carbine.net/forumdisplay.php?f=141

    Master Armorer/R&D at SIONICS Weapon Systems- http://sionicsweaponsystems.com

  6. #16
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    IG: Your armorer's course lists recommended tools to bring/purchase and I noticed something. In addition to the barrel blocks and large Starrett punch to "shock the pins", do you really break these pins loose with the little 1" brass/nylon hammer from Brownells or do you use something heftier?

    Quote Originally Posted by Iraqgunz View Post
    I typically use this. I clamp the barrel from the front or behind the FSB depending on profile, etc...Then I use the largest punch in the set and smack the pins hard (in a shocking motion). 98% of the time they loosen within the first few strikes. I have done this with Colt, BCM, SIONICS, Bushmaster, and Stag.

    http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-to....aspx?psize=96

  7. #17
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    So the issue with removing the pins is vibration. If the pins are not stable (meaning can bounce around), then the blow of the hammer is not going to be as affective.

    We use this block; http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-to...7cMake_3=AR-15 and then we take another V block to support the middle of the barrel. Then, we take a large punch and grind the edges so they are not sharp (incase you miss). Have someone press down the middle of the barrel while the pins are hit as HARD as you can. That initial blow is very important so don't tap them!

    This method has worked 100% of the time for us.



    C4

  8. #18
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    I clamp my barrel to a 2x4 and rest it on a concrete floor. This coupled with a large starter punch and small sledgehammer has worked well for the last 3 I did...BCM, Colt and Sionics. Under 5 min.


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  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iraqgunz View Post
    I typically use this. I clamp the barrel from the front or behind the FSB depending on profile, etc...Then I use the largest punch in the set and smack the pins hard (in a shocking motion). 98% of the time they loosen within the first few strikes. I have done this with Colt, BCM, SIONICS, Bushmaster, and Stag.

    http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-to....aspx?psize=96
    I'll have to order that. Damn it.
    "What would a $2,000 Geissele Super Duty do that a $500 PSA door buster on Black Friday couldn't do?" - Stopsign32v

  10. #20
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    I use that hammer all the time, as some M4C members who have been in my class can attest.

    Quote Originally Posted by tehpwnag3 View Post
    IG: Your armorer's course lists recommended tools to bring/purchase and I noticed something. In addition to the barrel blocks and large Starrett punch to "shock the pins", do you really break these pins loose with the little 1" brass/nylon hammer from Brownells or do you use something heftier?



    Owner/Instructor at Semper Paratus Arms

    Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/SemperParatusArms/

    Semper Paratus Arms AR15 Armorer Course http://www.semperparatusarms.com/cou...-registration/

    M4C Misc. Training and Course Announcements- http://www.m4carbine.net/forumdisplay.php?f=141

    Master Armorer/R&D at SIONICS Weapon Systems- http://sionicsweaponsystems.com

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