Current Browning / FN Hi-Power

[Pilot1]

My Hi Power can beat up your Hi Power...

Here's the before and after of my formerly Izzy early Mk III (forged frame) that I sent to Don Williams to work his magic. Currently my EDC in a TT holster. Trigger makes 1911's jealous.

That is fantastic! Don does great work. That is pretty close to the perfect, all around handgun. I love my MK III, factory Silver Chrome BHP (factory adjustable sights) as the finish is very durable, but it is just a range gun at this point as I carry my CZ PCR.

[gaijin]

Both Don Williams and Ted Yost offer a "short reset" trigger job.
I have had this done by Don- and it makes a difference.
The P-35 trigger can never become a 1911 trigger due to the linkage involved with the double column magazine.

It is common to for a FS dovetail to cut into the silver soldered barrel busing.
Most smiths use a "Heinie" rather than a "Novak" dovetail, as it's a shallower cut.

[yoni]

Attachment 44681


My Novak

[brickboy240]

I need to take photos of my modded Izzy Hi-Power. I had a C&S hammer/sear/spring kit installed, swapped the safety, put Herrett cocobolo grips and had the thing teflon coated by Match Grade Arms.

It is the most accurate 9mm I have ever shot.

[Circle_10]

Yoni,

This is a close up of a rather indistinct stamp on my Hi Power, I apparently have one of the ex-Israeli guns, I'm assuming it was probably a police sidearm because while the finish is pretty rough on mine it does not appear to have been shot all that much. Instead of a Star of David I have this mark on it. It looks like it might be some sort of Hebrew marking but I'm not sure. Any idea?

[Gunfixr]

Question here, I have a MarkII (I believe) Hi-Power made in 1988. Slide has a narrow rib running the full length. Front sight is not dovetailed, it is either silver-soldered or integral.

My question is this - is there enough material to machine a dovetail and put on new sights?

The front sight is integral. Yes, there is sufficient material to dovetail it for a mk 3 sight. I have one of these mk 2 pistols, and did just that. It now wears mk 3 sights, tritium front, std rear. IIRC, the rear dovetail had to be opened up a bit also.

A stronger trigger spring doesn't change reset as much as it changes the rest of the pull. I built up and re-contoured the top of the trigger lever where it engages the link in the slide, and got a much better reset. It does take some careful fitting, so as not to cause other problems.

Steve camp sounds familiar, I think I found his pages. He did say you could run +p or +p+ through at least the mk 2 guns, provided you put in a stronger recoil spring.
I left the original hammer spring and am running a 40 Cal strength recoil spring, and it eats +p+ like candy. It will occasionally stovepipe std 115gr though.

Kept my gun "no frills". Std sights, tritium front, regular rear, lightly blasted the original black plastic grips, left the lanyard ring, basic moly resin finish.


Sent from my SGP612 using Tapatalk

[noonesshowmonkey]

After a fair amount of research, it seems like the only answers to cleaning up the reset and trigger travel on the BHP are three fold:

1) Lowering the front loop of the trigger spring.

This will provide more and earlier force on the trigger to push it back into the reset position, hence the reset. Further, with the removal of the magazine disconnect safety, a great deal of slack is introduced into the trigger that needs to be taken up somewhere, and that somewhere can be with the trigger spring. Think about it: the MDS presses against the magazine and frame, pushing the trigger forward and resisting against the front coil of the trigger spring. If you remove that force, you need to apply more leverage onto the trigger across a longer throw for the front coil of the trigger spring to engage.

2) Straighten the leaf spring, changing it's interface with the sear.

By modifying the leaf spring's interface with the sear, you can apply more force to the sear interface on reset, making the "click" of the sear engagign the hammer more clear.

3) Adding a small weld to the Sear Lever on the trigger transfer side.

If you add a touch of material to the sear lever where the trigger transfer bar pushes against it, when the sear and main spring engage on the sear side, the amount of force applied with be magnified onto the trigger by the extra few mm worth of material, pushing harder and giving a clearer metal-on-metal final position, thus a clearer reset. The problem is that the sear lever has to clear the slide and frame during recoil and return to battery, so this is really touchy.

I am going to start with the first, and see what I can get out of it.

[26 Inf]

The front sight is integral. Yes, there is sufficient material to dovetail it for a mk 3 sight. I have one of these mk 2 pistols, and did just that. It now wears mk 3 sights, tritium front, std rear. IIRC, the rear dovetail had to be opened up a bit also.

Thanks for the info!

[Gunfixr]

For my trigger, I removed the mag disconnect, and made a plug for the hole. I did increase the engagement of the rear part of the trigger spring some, but that didn't make much of a change. So, I looked at where the little lever on the trigger (can't remember it's official name, don't feel like looking it up) interacts with the lever mounted in the slide.
The top had a bevel on the rear side, and the slide mounted lever was a bit rounded, and also angled. This would cause the trigger lever to be rather "gently" released off the end of the slide mounted lever, resetting, but having no feel for it, or hearing it. I squared up the slide mounted lever, built up the top of the trigger lever and squared it up also, and got it a bit taller. Basically, it's getting it to clear everything around it during cycling, and stopping when it does. I left the sear and it's spring alone, except for a bit of stoning. I was not seeking a particularly light, or match type trigger. Just wanted it cleaned up some. If I go back in it, I might take out some of the pre-travel.

Sent from my SGP612 using Tapatalk

[williejc]

You boys be careful and don't fix something that ain't broke.