Armorer's Kit, what's needed?

[officerX]

Since all the tools I ordered so far have arrived I decided to put them to use this morning.

My current AR's are 1) S&W M&P sport II with OEM trigger and Aimpoint pro, since I had the PRS stock on my BCM lower I also put the BCM QD endplate on my S&W.
2) Daniel Defense M4V11 PRO complete upper with BCM complete lower, the BCM lower has the PRS stock and Geissele SSA-E trigger installed. For optics it has the Vortec Viper 6.5-20 scope and magpul pro offset sights.

Last week I picked up a complete DD lower, and today I have a 16" BCM upper being delivered.

So getting to the point, I wanted the DD lower with the DD upper and needed to get the BCM lower ready for the new upper.

First thing I did was removed all three lowers and then all three buffer tubes, the PRS went on the DD lower and the BCM QD plate went back on the BCM lower with it's origanl tube back on.

The S&W I added the DD QD plate since it didn't have one from the factory. I was able to try out my auto center punch staking the BCM and S&W lowers, works very well for what it does.

Next I removed the SSA-E and installed it in the DD lower, and installed and SSA in the BCM. The stock BCM trigger felt much cleaner than my S&W trigger so I installed that in the sport II as well.

Tried out the PlastiXrevolution trigger tester, works as advertised.

I have the magpul front and rear BUIS here for the BCM and ordered a Vortec SPARC since it was on sale, I'll have to see if I like it or not.

The geissele trigger pins seem firm and in place, the BCM and S&W pins feel like they would start to slip back out easily. I currenty have the BCM pins with the BCM trigger in the sport II. Do most owners just leave them like that or is ordering Geissele pins pretty common for a more secure fit? I have the pins installed correctly.

I'm not a fan of the pins with the anti rotation modification but are they more preferred?

Again thanks for all the help guiding me in the right direction on the tools, I think this will be a good start and plan to pick up a KAC stripped lower next month since my local shop has some ans start slow and just assemble a complete lower.

When I start the upper I'll have more questions so I'll wait till then. Added some picks of the tools and the Sport and BCM trigger, the silver is the BCM for those that don't already know.
Attachment 45309Attachment 45310Attachment 45311

That is a BCM PNT (Polished Nickel Teflon) trigger. It's an upgraded Mil Spec trigger that they sell for about $60 (but install in their lowers).

[tehpwnag3]

I'll add that it's a nice trigger, so no surprise that it felt better than your stock S&W.

That is a BCM PNT (Polished Nickel Teflon) trigger. It's an upgraded Mil Spec trigger that they sell for about $60 (but install in their lowers).

Many, many years ago I was into anti-walk pins only because the aftermarket (like JP) didn't use j-springs in their speed hammers (later versions). However, I have never had a mil-spec pin walk out with correct installation.

[FondaBellamy]

Great advice. Thanks for sharing.

[salo225]

This should be the "tool box list" of any aspiring AR builder. Good job!!

I'm in the process of acquiring parts for a build, and the associated tools. Based on everything I've read, is there any reason to get a drive pin punch set? Seems like most folks recommend just a roll pin punch set and a starter punch set. Am I missing something?

Also, is there any benefit (other than cost) to getting something like a PlastiXrevolution upper vice block or a clamshell vice block, over a Gieselle reaction rod or magpul BEV block? Seems like anything that doesn't lock into the barrel extension would just toque the upper receiver, and possible damage it.

[Locutus]

I'm in the process of acquiring parts for a build, and the associated tools. Based on everything I've read, is there any reason to get a drive pin punch set? Seems like most folks recommend just a roll pin punch set and a starter punch set. Am I missing something?

Also, is there any benefit (other than cost) to getting something like a PlastiXrevolution upper vice block or a clamshell vice block, over a Gieselle reaction rod or magpul BEV block? Seems like anything that doesn't lock into the barrel extension would just toque the upper receiver, and possible damage it.

First, you'll need a flat punch to remove the trigger and hammer pins if you ever do any maintenance.

I have only used the typical clamshell and the Magpul BEV Block. The BEV block is a cool idea, but mine at least seems to fit rather sloppy. The upside is that it doubles as a lower receiver block. The clamshell has been in use for MANY years and if you think about it, torquing the barrel nut onto the receiver is exactly what you're supposed to be doing.

I can see you logic possibly being applicable when cranking down on a muzzle device and crush washer, but is it enough to make a difference? Again, this is a weapon system that's gone without BEV Blocks and Reaction Rods for decades. The one thing I see that I think is cool about the Reaction Rod (again, I've never used one) is that you can easily index your upper onto it at different angles like I saw in a video where a guy was making an instructional video for installing Midwest Industries rails.

[salo225]

First, you'll need a flat punch to remove the trigger and hammer pins if you ever do any maintenance.

I have only used the typical clamshell and the Magpul BEV Block. The BEV block is a cool idea, but mine at least seems to fit rather sloppy. The upside is that it doubles as a lower receiver block. The clamshell has been in use for MANY years and if you think about it, torquing the barrel nut onto the receiver is exactly what you're supposed to be doing.

Thanks, that's helpful. Do you often remove the trigger and hammer pins to conducts maintenance, or is it more of a "random occasion" thing?

Wanting to torque the barrel nut directly onto the receiver makes sense now that you say that. Given that comment, it seems like a clamshell would be safer than one of those plastiXrevolution blocks which could place undo stress on the pivot and takedown lugs. Although, maybe I'm overthinking this and underestimating the strength/durability of these parts...

[hdrolling]

Thanks, that's helpful. Do you often remove the trigger and hammer pins to conducts maintenance, or is it more of a "random occasion" thing?

Wanting to torque the barrel nut directly onto the receiver makes sense now that you say that. Given that comment, it seems like a clamshell would be safer than one of those plastiXrevolution blocks which could place undo stress on the pivot and takedown lugs. Although, maybe I'm overthinking this and underestimating the strength/durability of these parts...

I'm new to this as well hence the starting of the thread, to answer your first question I guess would depend on how many rifles you have and if you like to upgrade parts at all.

I currently have three AR's, and my old triggers have been replaced with new in all three. And on top of that I moved different triggers around to better suit my needs(wants).
So the flat punches I just bought get used more than any of the other tools so far.

The plastiXrevolution blocks haven't been used yet, but the kit I bought also had their trigger tester that has been used on every trigger i installed. I haven't reached the level yet to try the rest of the kit but i'll have everything by time i get there.

[Locutus]

Thanks, that's helpful. Do you often remove the trigger and hammer pins to conducts maintenance, or is it more of a "random occasion" thing?

Wanting to torque the barrel nut directly onto the receiver makes sense now that you say that. Given that comment, it seems like a clamshell would be safer than one of those plastiXrevolution blocks which could place undo stress on the pivot and takedown lugs. Although, maybe I'm overthinking this and underestimating the strength/durability of these parts...

I took an armorers course at Academi for my own edification, but I am NOT a working armorer and I lack the long experience that most of them have. Everything I say is worth exactly what you paid for it.

Having said that, I tend to think that the vast majority of AR shooters will never remove those pins unless they decide to replace their G.I. type trigger/hammer with something fancier. I've been shooting (not repairing) the AR platform since I went to Parris Island 42 years ago and I've never seen anyone need to have those parts replaced. WORKING armorers may have a different story to tell.

I have the punches because a) as a Cowboy Action shooter, I work on more than just AR's and b) I like to dink around with my toys. The trigger on my last build is a bit grittier than I like, so I've ordered a nickle/teflon hammer/trigger set to drop in. If you are going to be building rifles, then I just assumed that you would probably find yourself dinking around with them as well.

I've never used a PlastiXrevolution block, but it's my understanding that they are useful when working on milled (rather than forged) receivers because many of them will not fit properly into a standard clamshell. The Reaction Rod and BEV Block both have that same advantage, but the PlastiXrevolution block may have some other feature that I'm not aware of.

I'm happy with my clamshell and BEV Block, but I wouldn't avoid the PlastiXrevolution because of the receiver lugs. If you manage to bend your receiver, then I tend to think you're far exceeding the upper torque limit of 85 ft/lbs. Again, my advice is worth every penny you paid for it...

[salo225]

Good stuff, thanks for the knowledge. Seems like I'm definitely overthinking this...

[tylerw02]

Here's the list were I to start today:

Quality vice

Magpul Bev block

Magpul armorers wrench

Snap on or other quality torque wrench

Brownells front sight block

Wheeler AR block

Grace roll pin punches and roll pin starter punches. A quality flat punch set as well.

Geisselle reaction rod

Brass hammer and poly hammer

Pair of needle nose pliers

Gas block jigs from BRD

Gas block roll pin starter tool front brownells.

Quality gunsmithing screw driver set

Quality Allen wrench set

Staking punch. I use a center punch.


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