Armorer's Kit, what's needed?

[Locutus]

Hey guys, I have the Brownell's bolt catch tool.

What I do is take a 3/32 roll pin holder and start the pin from the left. Then I install the bolt catch and use 3/32 pin punch inserted from the right as a slave pin to hold it in place.

This is a super-special punch available only from me. It is designed to fit only half way through the bolt catch. I normally sell them for 20.00 but I'll tell you have to make one because I'm a nice guy. Take your receiver and insert the 3/32 pin punch 1/2 way through the opening and use a sharpie to mark the shaft where it enters the bolt catch 'ear.' I've used the same punch as a slave on several installs without having to re-mark the shaft.

Install the bolt catch spring, plunger and catch, run it through until it touches the roll pin you've started and then back it out to the edge of your mark - this makes sure things are lined up.

At this point I use painter's tape to hold the slave pin in place, remove the receiver from the mag well block and place it with the receiver extension end of the receiver flat on the bench. I prefer to tap straight down when I can alter the work piece to do so. I tape the slave pin in place because I only have two hands and a small child is not always available.

Using the Brownell's tool and an 8oz ball pein I give the roll pin a firm tap, check alignment and then another. At that point the roll pin has usually displaced the slave pin slightly. In any event I check it and if it is holding the bolt catch I remove the slave pin and reinstall the receiver onto the mag well block.

I finish seating the roll pin using the smaller of these parallel jaws compound pliers with taped jaws: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-Comp...iers/999957733 (I bought them on sale)

The reason I like using the pliers is because I can 'feel' whats going on. I sometimes hold the receiver at this point instead of replacing onto mag block.

After I have it seated as much as the pliers will allow, if needed, I remove the receiver from the mag block and reorient the receiver with the extension end down onto my bench, I use the Brownell's bolt catch tool to seat to proper depth.

This takes longer than just using the bolt catch tool, but I haven't marked a receiver at all doing a bolt catch install or replacement.

For replacements, use the Brownell's tool to drive the roll pin out just far enough so the bolt catch will come free. You'll know the proper depth if you mark the bolt catch punch first.

You should make a youtube video of it, but don't forget the lapping compound so the pin won't slip out.

[tehpwnag3]

For spring-loaded small parts, work inside a plastic bag. Recovery is virtually guaranteed.

Don't forget to get a few extra detente pins, maybe springs too. When they fly, and they will regardless of tool, your stuck until your next order arrives.

Rarely are they ever recovered.

[GallagherRayS]

I bought the Magpul BEV Block and it's OK, but I wish it fit more snugly into the barrel extension. My fear is that the sloppy fit will chew the locking lugs. It does also pin to the pivot pin hole, so maybe my fears are unfounded. Do you feel a bunch of play rotationally when you mount an upper on your Reaction Rod? (THAT sounded weird!)

Very minimal, it's pretty solid all the way. When I install rails like the DD I don't even have the lugs engaged after the barrel nut is torqued, just riding in the upper and it's tight enough that it does not rotate unless I move it (if you've installed one you know how it is to get those screws going).
I like that I don't need to use my BCG to secure the upper with it since half the time I'm doing a build I don't have one yet, and my bench vise is in the garage so that would be another part to haul out there to work with.

[26 Inf]

You should make a youtube video of it, but don't forget the lapping compound so the pin won't slip out.

but don't forget the lapping compound so the pin won't slip out.

I'm not understanding that, I've never heard that before.

[RobertTheTexan]

Don't forget to get a few extra detente pins, maybe springs too. When they fly, and they will regardless of tool, your stuck until your next order arrives.

Rarely are they ever recovered.

This isS a very good point Hart. I actually keep a mangled take down spring right in front of my vise where I do my lower work. It's a constant reminder to take things slow, concentrate on my current task and be patient.

That and I always have a few of these in my spare parts inventory, when I am none of the above. Lol
https://dsgarms.com/dsg-4201-0028

I use DSG Arms Enhanced LPK (-) trigger on every single build I do. They are one of Texas' best GS.




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[Locutus]

but don't forget the lapping compound so the pin won't slip out.

I'm not understanding that, I've never heard that before.

You know, so the grit will help the pin stay in place... I was kidding, brother. You got me on April Fool's Day, but not twice...

[RobertTheTexan]

My
10)PlastiXrevolution AR15 Deluxe Upper & Lower Vise Block + Cleaning & Trigger Test

How big is your vise? The maximum distance your vise jaws will open?

I just want to make sure you don't have an issue when you get the PlastiX Vise block. You need to have at least a 4" vise. By the way I used mine, (same as yours but for AR10) night before last to finish my DMR build.



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[hdrolling]

How big is your vise? The maximum distance your vise jaws will open?

I just want to make sure you don't have an issue when you get the PlastiX Vise block. You need to have at least a 4" vise. By the way I used mine, (same as yours but for AR10) night before last to finish my DMR build.



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6 1/2in, it pretty good size.

This should be the "tool box list" of any aspiring AR builder. Good job!!
And good job on your two AR's- the both loom really nice but I'm partial to your SPR with the monopod. Did you buy completed uppers for these two builds or did you assemble both upper and lower yourself?
I think most people will tell you buying a complete upper makes more sense and that you don't save any money by building out the upper yourself. You know that's a very valid point. The latter point I would debate depending on your build strategy and parts selection. The latter part is debatable depending on your approach. I really enjoy the process of the build. Today I shot my DMR (.308) for the first time. You know it's just an amazing feeling when you put a lot into the firearm, and you take it to the range for the first time. I may enjoy that feeling just a liiiiiiittle too much though. Lol. Either way you go, I'm sure you will put together a well built firearm and do it with the right tools for the job!

Looking at your "stable", the only thing missing is an SBR. Have you considered that?


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My S&W sport II was a complete rifle, and I bought a complete DD upper and two complete lowers.

I was able to use the punches and trigger block yesterday installing my SSA-E on the SPR, GREAT TRIGGER!

I'll install the new SSA that I ordered yesterday in my sport II , when it arrives. I really like these punches you recommended.

I still don't understand the SBR, I thought legally 16" was the shortest barrel you could go? How is everyone owning all these SBR's I keep seeing ?

[MistWolf]

Now, the bolt catch is probably the most annoying thing to install but I have found a trick. Take a pair of standard sized channel locks, wrap the jaws in painters tape or masking tape

It's your rifle, it's your money, but there is a better tool for the job, one that is easier to use than Channel Locks and less likely to mar the finish

I finish seating the roll pin using the smaller of these parallel jaws compound pliers with taped jaws: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-Comp...iers/999957733

A better tool than Channel Locks or the Kobalt pliers are the smooth jawed pliers made by Knipex. The jaws are always parallel to each other and give you a good feel while pressing pins into place. They are what I prefer to use when installing trigger guards because they support the ear and prevent it from breaking

How is everyone owning all these SBR's I keep seeing ?

By filling out the proper forms and paying the $200 sin tax

[556BlackRifle]

Why? For a first time builder it is way easier than doing it with punches. Before I knew they had specific punches for that task I was using standard ones, even with tape ended up scratching my receiver pretty good, got fed up and thought to use the channel locks, as long as the jaws are taped there isn't an issue.

If there is some evidence of this technique causing problems with the build, let me know because I have 4 personal rifles and 3 rifles of a friend done this way with no issues so far. Also, only one time did I scratch a receiver doing this, and that was an Anderson lower that I don't give a crap about so I didn't tape the jaws up, and even then it was tiny.

-Ray

What bugs me is when they use a framing hammer to drive pins.

I've tried all of those methods and while they work, there is a higher degree of risk associated with using them. Personally, I use a mag block and set the lower 90 degrees offset in the vice and use the correct tools. (starter and punch) I feel the risk of damage is much lower and since most people don't like their lower to be mucked up by some shadetree gunsmithing, everyone should be happy with the end result.

ETA: The above is related to bolt catch pin installation.

For trigger guard installation I use a bench block that the lower fits into and drive the pins with the appropriate starter and punch. I've never broken an ear off and hope that I never will.