Make your own H1 H2 H3 buffer assembly?

[zydeco76]

I recently ordered a new H2 buffer. I am now thinking I would be better off with an H3. I dont want to spend the money on a new buffer. I opened up both the old Car and new H2 buffers by removing the roll pin. There are 3 weights and in the H2 two of them are replaced with tungsten weights. My assumption is the an H1 has 1 tungsten and H3 has 3. Where can I get another tungsten weight? Is there a draw back that I am missing in just adding one to make an H3?

[Jay Cunningham]

Why don't you want to spend the money on the correct buffer?

[Iraqgunz]

Why don't you first explain why you think that you need an H3 and what type of system you are using? I really wish people would do a little research into what they are buying and spend some time trying to understand the system.

[zydeco76]

I thought I had made a post in reply to the second post in this thread I assume I hit the wrong button.

"Why don't you want to spend the money on the correct buffer?"
What is "the correct buffer" buffer is subjective. When people are having issues related to buffer weight it is often suggested that they try an H1 or H2 or H3. The problem is you dont know which is "the correct buffer" till you try it. This leads people to spend alot of money one parts they dont need. I am all for supporting the industry to a point. This type of thing hurts the consumer and the industry in the long run. Am I missing something here? Is there a reason a person should not just buy 3 tungsten weights and change the config around till they have the weight they need or want? Why buy another buffer assembly? Anyone know where I can find a weight?
A bufer assembly consists of these parts:
1 buffer assembly housing
1 roll pin
3 weights
3 spacers to cushion weights
1 rubber buffer (cap)

I already own that list times two. I just need one more tungsten weight to see wether an H3 is a move in the right direction.

Iraqgunz thank you for your reply. A few posts down you will find the reason for my thinking about an H3 buffer. Here is the link http://m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=26744
I have spent plenty of hours on the net researching and and trying to understand this system. I have found the information helpful yet always seeming to stear me into spending more money on stuff. I have 100's of gun related tools and parts in my home that I did not need never needed and only realised it after I bought it and used it.

[Sabre675]

pinewood derby sites have the tungsten weights you need.

[zydeco76]

thank you sabre!

[MisterWilson]

.....

[crossgun]

How did you conclude that the weights are tungsten?

[Jay Cunningham]

Depending upon the type of buffer, some of the weights are steel and some are tungsten.

[zydeco76]

I already knew that the H buffers had a Tungsten weight. I did not know how it was arranged inside though. After I received my new H2 buffer. I felt I had nothing to lose by tearing into my old no name car buffer as it was out of spec anyway (not as heavy as a car is supposed to be). I wont sell parts that I know to be faulty. It just goes against my grain so I took it apart. After looking at it for a sec I could see that the only thing that could come out or off was the rubber buffer and the roll pin. I assumed correctly that the roll pin was where you should start. I had a roll pin punch already (one of the gun tools I have that was worth buying). I tapped the pin out and the rubber buffer came right out when I pulled on it. Well after that I looked at my new H2 and couldn't resist. I tapped out the pin. The new rubber buffer was a bit hard to get out as it was glued in. I was however still able to remove it with my fingers. I poured the contents out and it was the exact same assembly. The new one came from Grant at G&R Tactical. All the components were obviously of better quality. The spacers were thicker. The rubber buffer was stiffer. The aluminun housing was coated well. I even weighed every weight. The weight in the car was some dark metal and so was the lighter of the three in the H2. The weights were pretty close with all of them with the H2 having 2 heavier weights. I think its a fair safe assumption that the 2 heavier weights are tungsten and the lighter is the standard car weight. Assuming you have a car buffer I see no reason why you would need to buy anything other than 3 tungsten weights to make an H H2 or H3 buffer. If you want a higher quality buffer then you could buy one H3 and use the weights from your old car buffer to mix and match H H2 H3 as you see fit. Or you could find some tungsten weights.
Just for fun I just disassembled the buffer again to post the weights of the components. My scale is kinda cheap but is fairly close I think. The disassembly took less than a minute and that included pulling it from my carbine.

Standard weight (dark one)= 18.1 grams
Tungsten (shinny weight)= 41.3 / 41.6

Anyone feeling like pulling out a bunch and weighing their weights to see if they are getting the same thing?