A short time ago there was a thread which mentioned threading the hole for the rear take down pin detent. Got bored today and decided that I was going to do the deed.
It was roughly a five minute job but I had to go to the hardware store to get a tap, some set screws, and while I was there, a couple of 'two for a dolla' Pearson's Salted Nut Rolls.
Parts needed:
0 to 1/4" tap handle (already had but they cost about $9.00)
4-40 NC self-aligning tap (runs about $3.69 for an Irwin Hanson tap)
4-40 socket head set screws (I got a couple each 1/8, 3/16, and 1/4 inch for $0.29 a piece)
0.05 allen key for set screws
sidecutters to cut spring
The hole in the receiver for the rear takedown pin spring and detent doesn't need to be drilled, it is the right size. I use cutting oil on the tap and go several turns to get the tap started, remove and blow out, then about a two turns each time before I back the tap out and clean the hole. The aluminum cuts easy, but don't try to do more than two turns.
I kind of guesstimated the first time, and didn't go deep enough when I decided to use a 1/4 instead of an 1/8 inch set screw. After I was done I blew it out good, cleaned it with brake clean dipped a pipe cleaner in EWL and lubed the threads.
Next I cut the spring. I originally was going to use a 1/8 set screw, so I cut 1/8" from the spring. When I went to install the set screw I had a hard time push the spring in with the set screw and starting it into the threads. I decided it would be easier to cut the spring flush and use a longer set screw, so I did and topped it off with the 1/4" set screw. No need to loctite, the end plate will keep it from backing out.
I have a heck of a time with drill bits and remembering which one goes with which tap. Even though this job doesn't require a drill bit, I bought a #43 bit for the tap. I stopped by hobby lobby and bought some plastic coin tubes with screw on caps - for nickels - and stored my smaller taps, bits and set screws in them.
I took me much longer to round up the parts then it did to do the job. Now that I have everything organized, literally a 5-minute job. I think from this point forward I'll be doing this to all my builds and probably aluma-black the threads.
Last edited by 26 Inf; 01-20-18 at 02:04.
Saw that somewhere a few years back. Always enjoy and appreciate the ingenuity folks come up with. Well actually, most of the time.
Purchased my first BCM lower, all the rest are LMT. Nice lower, stock is nice and tight and like the pistol grip/angle. The PNT trigger while not an SSA is an improvement over a standard factory trigger in creep and pull. Safety is less positive than LMT with more "wiggle" but seems OK. Overall a win.
I finally did it. I finally went back to a fixed stock on my main carbine. Particularly with that (relatively speaking) heavy Aimpoint PRO, I find I just like the handling and balance of the fixed stock. The stock is one of the new production Brownells Retro Type D repros, I find they go well on non-retro ARs too. I have another one on my midlength.
When the weather warms up I'll probably rattle can this stock to match the rest of the gun.
I've also got a BCM light mount ready to go and am waiting on a Surefire G2X tactical to arrive in the mail.
I decided to swap out my rail covers and add some more colors to match my new stock.
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Did a little run and gun in the desert with iron sighs rather than the usual Aimpoint. Learned that I need to shoot with just irons more to get more proficient. Also tried out some new loads I worked up in 45 Colt.
I mounted my Aimpoint PRO in a brand new Larue M68 RAS II mount, and placed it on my carbine equipped with a RAS II handguard. Hoping to take it to the range soon to zero it in.
Got to an indoor range. Went through the recommended barrel break in process, and rezoed the aimpoint after barrel replacement.
My light mount did start to loosen up on me, tightened it back up once I got home. Will have to bring all the needed tools next time and apply some more locktite if needed.
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Last edited by vandal5; 02-03-18 at 11:38.
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