Looking for advice on a 357 Mag revolver purchase

[Big A]

Is the regular 686 still offered?

Yes.

Regular 686:
https://www.smith-wesson.com/firearms/model-686

686+:
https://www.smith-wesson.com/firearms/model-686-plus-0

And you can get them in different barrel lengths as well as Performance Center options.

I have a square butt 4in 686 no lock. Got it for $300 about 6 years ago.

[lowprone]

Since Colt only has one model of 357 currently produced and S&W revolvers are MIM part/side locked and really expensive,
I would look at the Ruger SP101 or GP100 for current production 357 revolvers.

[Coal Dragger]

Yes.

Regular 686:
https://www.smith-wesson.com/firearms/model-686

686+:
https://www.smith-wesson.com/firearms/model-686-plus-0

And you can get them in different barrel lengths as well as Performance Center options.

I have a square butt 4in 686 no lock. Got it for $300 about 6 years ago.

Thanks man. I'm kind of on the hunt for something like that.

[Coal Dragger]

Since Colt only has one model of 357 currently produced and S&W revolvers are MIM part/side locked and really expensive,
I would look at the Ruger SP101 or GP100 for current production 357 revolvers.

Or nut up and buy a Korth or Manurhin.

[richiecotite]

Those gp100 match champions are reeeeaal attractive.


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[Det-Sog]

This is killing me! I've recently been bitten by the revolver bug. I've reached Zen "for now" with SA's, and am getting sentimental thinking back to when I carried a S&W revolver waaaay back in the 80's when I became a LEO. I traded my duty S&W wheel gun for a Sig P226 back in 1989 and have not had a full sized wheel since.

The pre-lock 686 IMHO is one of the best revolvers EVER made. I'd sure like to get another... Thanks to this thread, I may have to start the hunt.

[Coal Dragger]

Yeah I'm on the hunt for one.

Only issue with the pre-lock 686's is that most have the fixed integral front sight and I hate that sight. So if I found a nice 686-1,2,3, or 4 it would have a trip to a good smith to convert the the DX style sight base. Adding extra cost.

[Spin Drift]

What ever you do, don't look here:

http://fugatefirearms.com/product-ca.../smith-wesson/

[jh9]

I do not believe you will find a 686 with recessed cylinders and pinned as the "L" frame was introduced right about the time S&W was phasing out those options. Here is a list of engineering changes to the 686.

1980, IIRC. The pinned/recessed features stop a few years after. Nevertheless, you are right that the L-frames never had a pinned barrel or recessed cylinder.

The pinned/replaceable front sight started with the mim guns (686-5). Originally a 0.05" solid pin, they now use the same size in a roll pin.

[jh9]

We still have a few older model 64's in our armory and a bunch of the 64's with lock, MIM hammer/trigger, firing pin in the frame and I can tell you the newer ones give us more light firing pin falls/failure to fire than the older 64's. I wouldn't waste my money on a new one but look for an older model Smith at a gun show. I am seeing more model 19's, 66's and 686's from personal collections at gun shows lately. I've had all three in different barrel lengths and prefer the 686's.

Yeah, the FMFPs are noticeably more sensitive to mainspring tension. Even with the Apex "tactical" firing pin I've had two different guns (686,627) light strike with the Wolff "Factory Strength" Type-I mainspring and the factory (shorter) strain screw bottomed out. I had another 686 that would knuckle with that combination.

The 627 is out getting some work done, including a set screw. Plan is to install the Wolff Type I spring with the longer square butt strain screw then reduce tension until I get it where I want it. Then lock it in place with the set screw. Just loosening the strain screw without something to hold it in place will cause it to keep backing out until you have ignition problems.

FWIW the PC guns are currently shipping with the Wolff Type 2 (competition) spring and the longer square butt strain screw. This combination will provide consistent ignition in most cases, but will NOT light off CCI 550 magnum primers. So if you're using factory .357 and plan on using the gun for protection you should probably test it thoroughly.

tl;dr Dicking around with springs on the FMFP guns isn't a plug-and-play affair. You really need to test them thoroughly. If you want 100% ignition either pay someone to do it right or leave it stock. Just dropping in a Wolff spring will eventually cause problems. Especially if you only practice with .38 and use .357s with harder magnum primers for protection.