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Thread: Dead Air Key-Mo Stuck Muzzle Device

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    Dead Air Key-Mo Stuck Muzzle Device

    'Sup fellas. So I've decided to replace my SiCo Trifecta muzzle devices and the MAAD mount on my Saker with the Dead Air Key-Mo system. Everything seemed to be GTG with regards to mounting and removing the suppressor. However, I did not necessarily go through the whole routine of timing the brake, or torquing it down to spec with a dose of Rocksett. As a result, when I went to remove the suppressor from the rifle it was mounted on I ended up unthreading the muzzle device. While the suppressor is off the gun I'm having a very hard time removing the muzzle device from the Key-Mo mount. I've tried heating it up to see if I couldn't get it to work loose, but the muzzle device is still stuck in the grip of the Key-Mo. Works a little too well I guess. I'm thinking maybe I could apply some Rocksett or maybe some red Loctite onto the threads, thread the brake and suppressor back on, let it cure overnight and then see if it sticks enough to allow me to break it free. Anyone run into this problem? Any recommendations, solutions, or ideas are welcome. Thanks.

    ETA: Disregard. I fixed it.

    Last edited by Boba Fett v2; 07-19-17 at 00:05.
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    What was the solution?

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    Quote Originally Posted by ffhounddog View Post
    What was the solution?
    My friend, I'm glad you asked that question because I was prepared to provide an answer whether anyone really gave a shit or not. But anyhow... Just so we're clear here, the muzzle device in question is the Dead Air muzzle brake equipped with dual forward facing small blast ports which are designed to forcefully redirect the otherwise lateral moving muzzle blast toward the front end of the muzzle, which subsequently disrupts the concussive pressure normally felt from being within close proximity. So lucky for me those ports reside on opposite sides of the inner circle within the muzzle device. The cuts for the ports are relatively wide apart, so I grabbed an extra wide flathead attachment from my Wheeler FAT Wrench set, plugged it into a universal screwdriver, secured the screwdriver in the workbench vise, carefully slid muzzle/mount/suppressor over the flathead until a positive connection was established, and finally, rotated the suppressor body counter-clockwise until the mount released itself from the now stationary muzzle device. That is all.
    "People have always been stupid. The Internet just makes it easier for us to know about them." - donlapalma

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    Quote Originally Posted by Boba Fett v2 View Post
    My friend, I'm glad you asked that question because I was prepared to provide an answer whether anyone really gave a shit or not. But anyhow... Just so we're clear here, the muzzle device in question is the Dead Air muzzle brake equipped with dual forward facing small blast ports which are designed to forcefully redirect the otherwise lateral moving muzzle blast toward the front end of the muzzle, which subsequently disrupts the concussive pressure normally felt from being within close proximity. So lucky for me those ports reside on opposite sides of the inner circle within the muzzle device. The cuts for the ports are relatively wide apart, so I grabbed an extra wide flathead attachment from my Wheeler FAT Wrench set, plugged it into a universal screwdriver, secured the screwdriver in the workbench vise, carefully slid muzzle/mount/suppressor over the flathead until a positive connection was established, and finally, rotated the suppressor body counter-clockwise until the mount released itself from the now stationary muzzle device. That is all.
    That was very observant, and smart! I've had excellent results with the key-mo and am very pleased with it. I hope you have similar results.
    Will - Owner of Arisaka LLC - http://www.arisakadefense.com

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    I used Rocksett on my muzzle device so had no problem there. But my Omega unscrewed from the KeyMo mount. Is using a drop of red Loctite a good idea? Rocksett? Obviously I won't be removing the KeyMo from the can often, but I still want to be able to.

    The other thing I read is it should be easier to remove the can when it's still hot. Is that true?
    Last edited by jackblack73; 07-19-17 at 13:33.

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    I've been using the SICO MADD Trifecta mounts for years with no issues on several rifles. Of course I clean the taper surfaces between use and apply the same lube as used on my BCG's to the taper surfaces and mechanics of the mount.

    I thought the Deadair mount for SICO MADD supressors "fixed" the SICO stuck suppressor issues?
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    Quote Originally Posted by jackblack73 View Post
    I used Rocksett on my muzzle device so had no problem there. But my Omega unscrewed from the KeyMo mount. Is using a drop of red Loctite a good idea? Rocksett? Obviously I won't be removing the KeyMo from the can often, but I still want to be able to.

    The other thing I read is it should be easier to remove the can when it's still hot. Is that true?
    You should use anti-seize between the key-mo and your omega, and then plenty of torque. I would not use any kind of threadlocker there.

    I always wait until the can cools down to ~160 degrees F before removing, and it comes off every time with minimal fuss. I keep a small laser thermometer in my range bag so there's no guessing about something being too hot to grab.

    Quote Originally Posted by Singlestack Wonder View Post
    I've been using the SICO MADD Trifecta mounts for years with no issues on several rifles. Of course I clean the taper surfaces between use and apply the same lube as used on my BCG's to the taper surfaces and mechanics of the mount.

    I thought the Deadair mount for SICO MADD supressors "fixed" the SICO stuck suppressor issues?
    The OP didn't use rocksett. Has nothing to do with the dead air mount.
    Will - Owner of Arisaka LLC - http://www.arisakadefense.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Slippers View Post
    You should use anti-seize between the key-mo and your omega, and then plenty of torque. I would not use any kind of threadlocker there.

    I always wait until the can cools down to ~160 degrees F before removing, and it comes off every time with minimal fuss. I keep a small laser thermometer in my range bag so there's no guessing about something being too hot to grab.



    The OP didn't use rocksett. Has nothing to do with the dead air mount.
    I don't use rocksett either, just torque them down....
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    Quote Originally Posted by Singlestack Wonder View Post
    I don't use rocksett either, just torque them down....
    He said he didn't torque it properly, as well.
    Will - Owner of Arisaka LLC - http://www.arisakadefense.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Slippers View Post
    You should use anti-seize between the key-mo and your omega, and then plenty of torque. I would not use any kind of threadlocker there.
    Wouldn't anti-seize make it more likely that they will separate?

    Perhaps I'm not torquing the KeyMo onto the Omega enough. I only have the wrench that came with the Omega. If I had another one, I'd be able to torque it down more.

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