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Thread: High recoil guns

  1. #1
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    High recoil guns

    I have owned an Ithaca Mag-10 and found the recoil to be tolerable. I bought a CZ 550 in .416 Rigby. I replaced the factory recoil pad with a Limbsaver. The English language does not have the words to describe the recoil from this gun. It was like having Mike Tyson hitting me in the shoulder with a sledgehammer! The gun is beautiful and the sound of the gun brings the range to a stop, but the recoil is not tolerable. I am afraid that gun will cause physical damage to my shoulder or detach a retina. Would a muzzlebrake significantly reduce the recoil?

  2. #2
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    Yes a muzzle brake will significantly reduce recoil, while significantly increasing noise. Still worth it for some firearms. Just double up on hearing protection.

    The more surface area the muzzle brake has for gasses to act on, the more effective it will be. So the large tank/artillery style brakes are more effective if ugly.
    Last edited by Coal Dragger; 07-27-17 at 17:42.

  3. #3
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    I've has the pleasure(unpleasure) of shooting a 416 Rigby before and i've felt your pain. I would highly recommend getting a muzzle break on that monster.
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    Quote Originally Posted by VIP3R 237 View Post
    I've has the pleasure(unpleasure) of shooting a 416 Rigby before and i've felt your pain. I would highly recommend getting a muzzle break on that monster.
    My brother has a .340 Weatherby with a BOSS brake. I could shoot that gun all day from the bench, but the Rigby is a significant step up in power. I would never consider shooting it from a bench! Maybe I'm just a wuss! Lol!

  5. #5
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    Stock design/drop at heel have a lot to do with perceived recoil, as does the weight of the firearm.

    I have a .450 Alaskan (.45 cal, 400/500 gr. bullet at 2400/2200 FPS) built on a mod. 71 Winchester, which is a modernized '86 Winchester.
    The old school stock design has a boat load of drop- which accentuates recoil.
    Shooting this gun standing is not much of a problem, load development and dialing in from the bench was a bad dream. After 3 rds. it was all I could do to NOT anticipate recoil and milk the shot low.

  6. #6
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    Although there are clearly exceptions to this, I would generally categorize high recoil guns as the following:

    Pistols: Anything over .357 magnum/10mm auto, ie .44 Magnum, .454 Casull, etc..
    Rifles: Anything above a .30-06 for your standard hunting rifle (7 to 8lb range)
    Shotguns: I find 12 gauge very reasonable to shoot with a standard 7-8lb shotgun but going to a lighter weight with 12 gauge or going to a 10 gauge seems to be much less enjoyable.

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    I own a Marlin 1895 guide gun in 45-70 government. I find if I hold her like a girl I brought to the dance who I don't want to get away, recoil really isn't much with the standard 405gr deer load. If I chamber a bear load round of 430gr or more she will let me know quickly that I must not want her to come home with me since I wasn't holding her like I meant it.lol.

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    .460 S&W pistol. Tooth rattler.

  9. #9
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    Adding a good muzzle brake or adding weight to the buttstock will reduce recoil by a noticeable amount. If you are going to carry the rifle long distances on hunts, you may not want to add weight.
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  10. #10
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    My dad had a Mag-10 and it was softer when compared to my Marlin Super Goose 10ga. It was the heaviest recoil I'd experienced until I shot Buffalo Bore in my unported Guide Gun. That made me decide I didn't need anything harder hitting than that.

    Snappiest was .357 Mag 125 JHP out of a scandium J Frame. That made my .44 Mag Mountain Gun feel like a target gun!

    Oh, a brake or porting will definitely help tame recoil, but it will be a lot less pleasant at the ears. A mercury recoil reducer in the stock would help too, but at the expense of extra weight. No such thing as a free lunch!
    Last edited by glocktogo; 07-31-17 at 22:10.
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