Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 14

Thread: Pulled Rear Take Down Pin All The Way Out

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    9
    Feedback Score
    0

    Pulled Rear Take Down Pin All The Way Out

    Well I guess I don't know my own strength but I somehow pulled the rear takedown pin all the way out!!! The detent pin was still in and didn't go flying into no man's land. That is, until I was messing with it and then it came out (talk about hunting for a needle in a haystack).

    I was actually trying to figure out how to get the detent pin back in and also the takedown pin WITHOUT having to loosen the staked castle nut and back plate.

    I did manage to get the detent back in several times (and have it pop out several times) but couldn't figure out how to get the takedown pin back in with the detent pin in the channel like it's supposed to be.

    I decided to go ahead and buy a castle nut wrench and remove it and install the rear takedown pin (and spring and detent) the normal way but then my stubborn streak reared it's ugly head

    I managed to get the detent back in then used an eyeglass screw driver to push it all the way back into the receiver.......while it was pressed in I inserted a CHOPSTICK through the back hole into the hole with the detent and once the chopstick was in I pulled out the screw driver. So now I have the detent pushed in most of the way and the chopstick inserted. Next I pushed the chopstick so that the detent was once again all the way in and placed my rear takedown pin flush with the chopstick (with the channel NOT towards the detent) and moved them TOGETHER AT THE SAME time until my rear takedown pin was in and the chopstick was out. Next I turned my takedown pin until the detent clicked into place ...........SUCCESS, and I avoided having to remove the staked castle nut. I do believe I can do this again if need be (hardest part may have been to get in the detent again, it's so very small and slippery).

    Some may ask why I just didn't do it the normal way to begin with. Well, first, I'd have to buy a castle nut wrench, probably a vice or something to hold the receiver, I didn't really want to break free the "pinned" castle nut and have to re-do that........and I was just being stubborn in thinking that there had to be another way to get that darn detent and pin back in!!! Plus the more I take apart and try to "fix" the more I sometimes mess something else up....LOL

    I actually sort of got the idea from a video where they were replacing the rear takedown pin without removing the castle nut....but in their scenario, the takedown pin was still installed so it was pretty easy to do. I guess in the end, the only thing I did different is use a smaller diameter rod (my chopstick) so it would fit in with the screwdriver yet still be able to push the detent in all the way and then slide out when I tried re-inserting the takedown pin. So I certainly don't take any credit for the "methodology", I'm just glad I got it to work the way it did.

    So, this has been a learning experience for me. And you can be sure I'll NEVER pull that pin all the way out again!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    Ended on a high note as I successfully installed a new safety without any incidents.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    N.E. OH
    Posts
    7,615
    Feedback Score
    0
    I would still be worried why it came out in the first place. I can't see how it would come out without damaging something (shearing the pin, or openening up hole in receiver).

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    9
    Feedback Score
    0
    Seems to be in there really good but next time I have a reason to remove the castle nut I'll take a look at everything. It's just a range gun and the pin seems to be functioning properly now. If anything, I think the detent pin looked a little small to me so I'll probably replace it at some point in time (and I'll look at the hole in the receiver).

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Southeast
    Posts
    115
    Feedback Score
    0
    The rear takedown pin may have been slightly rotated so that the detent was not seated into the slot of the pin

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    260
    Feedback Score
    0
    Detents are also brass & takedown & pivot pins are hardened steel. Enough force will mash the detent. However, if it's still stuck, I suspect the gentleman who noted it may not have been assembled correctly is right.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    AZ-Waging jihad against crappy AR's.
    Posts
    24,900
    Feedback Score
    104 (100%)
    Detents are not brass.

    Quote Originally Posted by MSW View Post
    Detents are also brass & takedown & pivot pins are hardened steel. Enough force will mash the detent. However, if it's still stuck, I suspect the gentleman who noted it may not have been assembled correctly is right.



    Owner/Instructor at Semper Paratus Arms

    Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/SemperParatusArms/

    Semper Paratus Arms AR15 Armorer Course http://www.semperparatusarms.com/cou...-registration/

    M4C Misc. Training and Course Announcements- http://www.m4carbine.net/forumdisplay.php?f=141

    Master Armorer/R&D at SIONICS Weapon Systems- http://sionicsweaponsystems.com

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    260
    Feedback Score
    0
    The little yellow pins aren't brass? What are they?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    North Alabama
    Posts
    5,312
    Feedback Score
    19 (100%)
    Quote Originally Posted by MSW View Post
    The little yellow pins aren't brass? What are they?
    The yellow ones are plated/coated steel like "titanium" drill bits. I'm pretty sure the silver ones are stainless. I tried to find a link but my google-fu is weak this morning.

    Andy

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    N.E. OH
    Posts
    7,615
    Feedback Score
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by MSW View Post
    The little yellow pins aren't brass? What are they?
    Not sure but they are paramagnetic. SOLGW are silver and hardened stainless.

    The yellow ones may be zinc-chromated steel. I couldn't find much online.
    Last edited by MegademiC; 09-17-17 at 08:33.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Northern Virginia
    Posts
    717
    Feedback Score
    61 (100%)
    I believe Colt and BCM detents are mil spec cadmium plated. Not sure what type of metal the detents are. I'm fairly certain their 17-4 springs are cadmium plated as well to prevent corrosion.


    I've had a couple wear down over the years (safety detent) and simply replaced them with Colt detents.
    Last edited by og556; 09-17-17 at 13:50.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •