Pulled Rear Take Down Pin All The Way Out

[eodinert]

I replaced the horrific take down pins on a HK MR556 without removing the end plate or castle nut.

I have found that a dental pick and a spare take down pin make it pretty easy. Once I've removed the old pin using the dental pick to push the detent into the receiver, I hold the spring and detent into the cavity using a small screw driver (or chopstick), and press the spare takedown pin in the hole from the wrong direction (taking care that the slot in the take down pin will not line up with the detent)... that holds everything in place. Next, I pushed the new take down pin in from the correct direction, taking care to make sure the detent pin track was pointed the correct direction, and push out the other pin. I rotate the new pin to make sure the detent is in the track, and drive on.

[Iraqgunz]

Uh no. They are made from steel (I think it's 1215L) which is why they are magnetic and are then yellow zinc or cadmium plated. Some companies use stainless steel.

The little yellow pins aren't brass? What are they?

[blade_68]

A "trick" I was shown back in 80s use M60 (30 cal.) Cleaning rod section for that and pivot pin too. If you don't have the pivot pin tool.... Pivot pin will still be a P.I.A. Have done that in field to replace broken pivot pin a time or 2. Someone drops lower just wrong on concrete floor with pin sticking out of lower receiver, snap go's the pin (note only seen happen to M16a2's)

[tehpwnag3]

OP - If no spare takedown/pivot pin to be had, use a 1/4" clevis pin that can be purchased from just about any hardware store. Just make sure it is long enough. Works like a charm on the pivot pin assembly, too, when building lowers.

I replaced the horrific take down pins on a HK MR556 without removing the end plate or castle nut.

I have found that a dental pick and a spare take down pin make it pretty easy. Once I've removed the old pin using the dental pick to push the detent into the receiver, I hold the spring and detent into the cavity using a small screw driver (or chopstick), and press the spare takedown pin in the hole from the wrong direction (taking care that the slot in the take down pin will not line up with the detent)... that holds everything in place. Next, I pushed the new take down pin in from the correct direction, taking care to make sure the detent pin track was pointed the correct direction, and push out the other pin. I rotate the new pin to make sure the detent is in the track, and drive on.