Battle to the death! CZP10 vs G19g5 vs M&P 2.0 Compact (starts on pg 6)

[Watrdawg]

I’m a lefty and I cannot for the life of me on any of the 2.0’s release the slide without considerable effort using the right side slide release.

I had this same issue with my M&P 45 Midsize. It was really difficult to manipulate the slide release. Over time it eased up quite a bit.

[Waylander]

I have the same issue as a lefty. What I've seen is the issue on most pistols, not necessarily the m&p 2.0, is the slide catch by default *catches* on the left side of the frame. Yet the right side slide lever is just attached to the right side since there is no *catch* on the right side of the gun. So if there's any flex across the slide release it's harder to release from the right side. I've seen this on the FN 509. Most get better with a little work.

The CZ P-10C is a little different altogether. It's a fully ambi slide catch/release in that it catches all across the slide, not just on one side. The downside is the release is a little stiff but after a few mags mine has smoothed out a lot.

[3ACR_Scout]

It’s a big goof on glocks part obviously something went wrong just wish they would do a little more. I guess sending a new trigger bar to install yourself might be too much of a liability for them?

My understanding is that Glock (and I’m sure other manufacturers) consider replacing the trigger / bar an armorer-level task, so they won’t send you the trigger assembly to do it yourself. I didn’t actually ask them, but I figured they wouldn’t send it to me when they suggested I send the whole pistol in to them.

That’s bullshit.
Why is it plated if it doesn’t affect performance?
It’s a complete failure of the part, as purchased and they need to make it right.

It’s totally unacceptable that this happens at such a low round count. However, looking at the exposed metal, I suspect that the coating’s main function is corrosion resistance. It still shines up fine when I clean it, and I didn’t notice any additional damage, pitting, or anything else on it after putting more rounds through it. I had already purchased a second trigger assembly to attempt to swap the serated trigger out for smooth one (taken off a G42 trigger bar). When that worked out, I swapped the assemblies out and put the original one in the spare parts box. I don’t like it, I’d like to see Glock fix it, but I’d still use the original “flaked” one if I had to.

[The Dumb Gun Collector]

Am I the only one who thinks the slide release on the MP2.0 is difficult to manipulate without moving your firing grip?

Does anyone make extended controls ?

I do not. However, I used to think that I had small hands but I measured them and apparently I have exactly average size hands— which means the average size guns tend to be perfect for me.

[TROPICS]

I have the same issue as a lefty. What I've seen is the issue on most pistols, not necessarily the m&p 2.0, is the slide catch by default *catches* on the left side of the frame. Yet the right side slide lever is just attached to the right side since there is no *catch* on the right side of the gun. So if there's any flex across the slide release it's harder to release from the right side. I've seen this on the FN 509. Most get better with a little work.

The CZ P-10C is a little different altogether. It's a fully ambi slide catch/release in that it catches all across the slide, not just on one side. The downside is the release is a little stiff but after a few mags mine has smoothed out a lot.

Another downside is that it auto forwards with very little force....

[Wake27]

Another downside is that it auto forwards with very little force....

I've never understood that shit. How often are you inserting a loaded mag but not sending the slide forward?

[MegademiC]

I've never understood that shit. How often are you inserting a loaded mag but not sending the slide forward?

The problem, ime is when it auto forwards before the mag is seated, resulting in a closed slide on an empty chamber.
It’s always a risk imo when it’s not controlled by the release. That said, the m&p1.0 had a reputation and mine never auto forward(unless I really tried), but I don’t slam mags as hard as possible either.

My understanding is that Glock (and I’m sure other manufacturers) consider replacing the trigger / bar an armorer-level task, so they won’t send you the trigger assembly to do it yourself. I didn’t actually ask them, but I figured they wouldn’t send it to me when they suggested I send the whole pistol in to them.


It’s totally unacceptable that this happens at such a low round count. However, looking at the exposed metal, I suspect that the coating’s main function is corrosion resistance. It still shines up fine when I clean it, and I didn’t notice any additional damage, pitting, or anything else on it after putting more rounds through it. I had already purchased a second trigger assembly to attempt to swap the serated trigger out for smooth one (taken off a G42 trigger bar). When that worked out, I swapped the assemblies out and put the original one in the spare parts box. I don’t like it, I’d like to see Glock fix it, but I’d still use the original “flaked” one if I had to.

It’s unacceptable at any round count. If a plating flakes or peels, outside of decorative coatings exposed to corrosives, it’s a failure. The plater failed to produce a satisfactory product. I wouldn’t expect Glock to catch it. I do expect them to, working with the plater, determine the scope of the problem and resolve the issue. Perhaps send replacement parts to those affected. It would do the company perception well.

Edit- adhesion issues are a platers worst nightmares. It’s a result of either complete breakdown of process controls, or complete lack of understanding of what you are trying to do - the first being preferred.

[Wake27]

The problem, ime is when it auto forwards before the mag is seated, resulting in a closed slide on an empty chamber.
It’s always a risk imo when it’s not controlled by the release. That said, the m&p1.0 had a reputation and mine never auto forward(unless I really tried), but I don’t slam mags as hard as possible either.

I didn’t know that was a thing. Both my 1911 and M&P1.0 will do it occasionally, but I’ve never had it happen without the mag being fully seated.



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[17K]

I was talking to the guy at Robar the other day and he doesn't think Glock is plating the metal parts. Said it's some kind of spray on process. I don't know anything about it.


I'm not sure the flaking finish on mine is the sole, or any cause of the trigger feel. I scraped the loose plating off and polished the end of the trigger bar and the trigger is still horrible, to put it nicely. I detail stripped the whole thing, no burrs, channel liner is fine, FPS moves freely and easily, nothing I see that would cause such a catchy, notchy feeling trigger. If I grease the interface between the right side slide stop and the trigger bar it gets better, but only for a dozen pulls or so.

I hope the Robar makes it nice as it was new or a little better, and it stays that way. These guns make my old DA/SA P2000 trigger nice by comparison.

[MadAngler1]

I’ve been tracking this thread for awhile. Within the last six months, I’ve purchased a CZ P10c, HK VP9 tactical and a Gen 5 Glock 19. I usually shoot just Gen 3 Glocks (17/19) and my 1911s for steel matches and IDPA.

Between the CZ P10c and Gen 5 Glock, I still prefer the Glock 19. The size is slightly more compact for conceal carry and the P10 didn’t really do anything for me better than the Glock. The P10 is closer to a XDM in my opinion than the Glock in terms of feel, the trigger and how it handles. I’m surprised more people haven’t made that comparison.

As for the VP9 tactical, it shoots like a dream, but those Youtube videos showing the gun choke on field dust worry me. My HK P30 simply rocks, and ideally, I would use that for a suppressor host. I may still keep the VP9 as a gamer gun at matches, but I still shoot my Glocks well. Time will tell if I keep it.

Regardless, the stories of worn trigger bars on Gen 5 glocks after 2-4k rounds worry me. I have about 1000 through mine now, and yes, the finish wear on all parts of the gun is far more noticeable than the Gen 3s. My Gen 3 G17 has well over 3000-4000 rounds through it and has barely little barrel or slide wear evident. I guess we need to pray for a Larry Vickers edition with tool steel parts and better finishes/coatings.