#2 is my main issue with the toggle lights.Originally Posted by Amicus
I'm just going to run the rail mount 2 a rifle instead.
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#2 is my main issue with the toggle lights.
I'm just going to run the rail mount 2 a rifle instead.
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I would prefer a scout type light, and my protac rail mount on a drop wing mount has done everything i needed and more. If you can't justify the expense of an x300/600 scout or an arisaka, the protac rail mounts ain't bad.
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Yes- one of the main downsides of toggle lights is lack of a lock out mode for transport
The dedicated WML's have this but I wonder how ergo turning it back on is...would suck to be in lockout mode when you're trying to ID a threat LOL
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I haven't had any issues with it, it's a solid little light that can be swapped over to the pistol if needed.
While a dedicated rifle light and mount may be better, a TRL is a solid WML, and is better than NO white light on your HD rifle.
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The other downside is that accidental activation is much easier on the TLRs (unless you have a shroud), vs. most others. If your vision is low-light adjusted and you accidentally bump a paddle close to a reflective surface (white wall, etc.), it will definitely take a bit to recover. That said they are great lights and I run a TLR-1 HL on 2 of my rifles.
On others I run an Inforce WML and WMLX. I run everything at 12 o'clock, just in front of the front BUIS, but not overhanging the rail. This keeps the rifle streamlined, less prone to snagging stuff, and facilitates ambidextrous use on transitions. The WML (latest generation) is a good choice, as it still puts out a decent amount on a single CR123, and is lighter, narrower, and not as tall on the rail as the TLR. I run a T2 in an absolute co-witness mount, so the lower-profile of the WML is beneficial in that configuration. The WMLX (2 cell version) is excellent as well, but for me, it's a bit too long for a smaller PDW/SBR, as running it In front of the front sight (on a short rail) shortens the sight radius too much. I run the WML (and the TLR-1 HL) on a 10" rail, and the WMLX on a 13" rail.
Just my $.02, YMMV!
Last edited by freefly; 10-19-17 at 22:52.
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My rail that I bought to put this light on (MI gen 3 m-lok) came with a Magpul polymer rail section should I use this or buy a Magpul aluminum rail section to mount the light?
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I take the TLR1 off and place it in a "travel soap" case I bought for 99 cents and it doesn't turn on in transport. in a bag... occasionally a dead light when I arrive until I put in fresh batts
I've never had an issue with the polymer rail sections personally. I don't think the Al is necessary, but if the kit being bolted on is important to you, the Al may provide peace of mind. If the light takes a hard enough hit to not just crack the polymer but actually break it to the point of failure to keep the light on the rail... I doubt the light will be working anymore
mounting a TLR1 or X300 in the 12 o'clock position makes for a very nice throw with no obstructions of the light, not necessary but nice
Last edited by voiceofreason; 10-20-17 at 05:36.
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The TLR-1 is designed to withstand the sharper recoil forces of a pistol. It will certainly withstand the milder recoil of an AR-15.
However, I do not recommend placing the lens of the light in close proximity to your rifle's muzzle device. The concussive blast forces from a rifle are much stronger than a pistol's blast. Repeated concussive blasts are detrimental to the electronics of the light over time, not to mention the blast residue will coat your lens quickly, stealing lumens from your light. Move your light back on your rail. Worry less about barrel shadow...it's not a big a deal as many claim. Moving your light back will extend the life of your light as well as prevent blast residue from stealing your lumens.
I also recommend getting the 800 lumen TLR1 HL. Lumens are life. The more, the better.
HD setup:
Hog hunting setup:
Last edited by Creature; 10-20-17 at 06:55.
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What are the advantages/disadvantages of using a TLR-1 (HL) over a Streamlight ProTac Rail Mount HL-X?.....and vice versa....
Last edited by MeanCarbine; 11-02-17 at 18:21.
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I can speak directly to the advantages of using a Scout light over a TLR-1 or X300.
First, the Scout type light is designed first and foremost for use on a carbine. As a result, it has many features that make it more attractive when mounted to a carbine. These include a slimmer profile, longer extension of the light relative to control surfaces, a rear pressure switch designed for direct thumb pressure that matches up with where your supporting hand will interface with the light vs a toggle / swing arm switch on the TLR-1 or X300 type of lights.
Next, the mounting system of a scout light allows you to utilize an incredibly broad spectrum of mounting options. Take a look around at Impact Weapon Systems for just the sheer variety of scout mounts available.
Further, Scout lights have tailcaps that can run to a pressure switch, allowing you to mount the light (in any of the badass scout mounts available) in a location where it is convenient for the light, but maintain control surfaces where it is convenient for the shooter. This is a big deal.
Finally, Scout lights are pretty much the standard for carbine lights, and investing in them allows you to share gear across several rifles / lights, especially in the case of Surefire Scouts / Arisaka light bodies / Malkoff heads.
For real, hands on, no shit rifle shooting, a scout light is the go to.
Last edited by noonesshowmonkey; 11-03-17 at 03:58. Reason: grammar, usage, order / flow
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