AR assembly techniques.

[Jmedic_]

Who goes to the maximum (80 foot pound) torque spec for the tighten/tighten/loosen routine?

The tighten/loosen routine is supposed to be done with the minimum (30 foot pound) torque spec, not the maximum.


Also, I have always hosed down every metal part with CRC non chlorinated brake cleaner and then I use an air compressor to dry the parts prior to assembly.

All plastic parts get hand washed with hot/warm soapy water and then they get the air compressor.

Yes, my skin will crawl if I happen to see someone skip these steps.

Thank you! This is what I wanted to know. So you do this even if the parts are all sealed up and only exposed once they're ready to be installed? I never torque down to the maximum. Every set of directions I've seen that comes with a rail specifically says not to torque to the maximum, but I'm sure there are plenty of people that fail to read the directions 🤔

[556Cliff]

Thank you! This is what I wanted to know. So you do this even if the parts are all sealed up and only exposed once they're ready to be installed? I never torque down to the maximum. Every set of directions I've seen that comes with a rail specifically says not to torque to the maximum, but I'm sure there are plenty of people that fail to read the directions ��

Yes, I even clean parts that came to me all sealed up direct from the factory. Metal parts are usually covered in some type of preservative oil or grease.

However, I do keep in mind that they do not preform my OCD clean routine at any of my favorite firearms manufacturing companies.

[Hulkstr8]

I think this is an excellent idea for a thread.

Does everybody apply aeroshell to all the threads? I usually do - barrel nut and castle nut/receiver extension.

I have more aeroshell than I could use in a lifetime it feels like. I bought like 14 oz.

[26 Inf]

Who goes to the maximum (80 foot pound) torque spec for the tighten/tighten/loosen routine?

The tighten/loosen routine is supposed to be done with the minimum (30 foot pound) torque spec, not the maximum.


Also, I have always hosed down every metal part with CRC non chlorinated brake cleaner and then I use an air compressor to dry the parts prior to assembly.

All plastic parts get hand washed with hot/warm soapy water and then they get the air compressor.

Yes, my skin will crawl if I happen to see someone skip these steps.

I would just let the brake cleaner evaporate.

I had an engine shop teacher in high school who was adamant you don't use shop air to clean/dry parts because most compressors don't have air dryers on them. Don't know that it's that big a deal.

When torquing I go to slightly below the minimum for my seasoning torques, then clean the aeroshell off with a rag and lightly reapply for final torque. Don't know if that's right, but it is what I do, grease is cheap.

I also oil roll pins, on my next assembly I'll probably use Giessele 0000 Grease. I figure since I push a drill bit into paraffin or soap before drill hardwood, it can't hurt to lube a roll pin.

[Jmedic_]

Yes, I even clean parts that came to me all sealed up direct from the factory. Metal parts are usually covered in some type of preservative oil or grease.

However, I do keep in mind that they do not preform my OCD clean routine at any of my favorite firearms manufacturing companies.

I suspect it would be next to impossible to do so. Unless they ran the place NASA when it builds satellites!

[556Cliff]

I think this is an excellent idea for a thread.

Does everybody apply aeroshell to all the threads? I usually do - barrel nut and castle nut/receiver extension.

I have more aeroshell than I could use in a lifetime it feels like. I bought like 14 oz.

Yep, I apply moly grease/paste to the upper receiver/barrel nut threads, castle nut/receiver extension threads and muzzle device/barrel threads.

[556Cliff]

I would just let the brake cleaner evaporate.

I had an engine shop teacher in high school who was adamant you don't use shop air to clean/dry parts because most compressors don't have air dryers on them. Don't know that it's that big a deal.

When torquing I go to slightly below the minimum for my seasoning torques, then clean the aeroshell off with a rag and lightly reapply for final torque. Don't know if that's right, but it is what I do, grease is cheap.

I also oil roll pins, on my next assembly I'll probably use Giessele 0000 Grease. I figure since I push a drill bit into paraffin or soap before drill hardwood, it can't hurt to lube a roll pin.

I actually use a condensation catcher to capture any moisture that may be coming down the air hose from the tank.

I also dip my roll pins in Slip 2000 EWL before installation... Same with taper pins, it works great.

[Jmedic_]

I think this is an excellent idea for a thread.

Does everybody apply aeroshell to all the threads? I usually do - barrel nut and castle nut/receiver extension.

I have more aeroshell than I could use in a lifetime it feels like. I bought like 14 oz.

I appreciate the compliment. I aeroshell the hell out of everything. What's the worst that's going to happen if there's a little bit too much? I do the same thing w/ lubrication.

[young_gun]

I think this is an excellent idea for a thread.

Does everybody apply aeroshell to all the threads? I usually do - barrel nut and castle nut/receiver extension.

I have more aeroshell than I could use in a lifetime it feels like. I bought like 14 oz.

I took apart my PSA upper this weekend because I couldnt see any grease around the barrel but (like all of my BCM uppers show) I was completely shocked (sarcasm) that it didn't have any grease and it was completely dry.

So I greased the hell out of it and put it all back together. I doubt it'll change anything but I sure do feel better knowing it has the right grease on it now.

[Todd.K]

I hand torque, to somewhere near max to get any possible stretch out before hitting final torque. I don't trust the minimum to do that if I end up near the maximum for final.

A bit of grease on the threads, but there is way more need for it on the front of the barrel extension. Everything should be clean and free of any grit or metal particles. Air is fine if you have a dryer or good trap.