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Thread: To build a M1a (M14) or AR-10

  1. #1
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    To build a M1a (M14) or AR-10

    I have a chance to buy a new loaded Springfield and been pondering over this. New loaded for $1,300 while they normally go for $1,600+.

    I love Garands and love it's "son" the M14/M1a. The role of this rifle would be local precision matches for gas guns out to 1k yards at least.

    Building a M1a but more less be throwing a scope and a brake (so I can use a can) and I may throw it in a EBR chassis although they are heavy. Then doing some tweaking to the gas system.

    AR10 may be a Aero Precision set with a B/A barrel at least. If I have the money Megan Arms with Bartlien barrel would be tits.

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    M1a can take alot to get the constant accuracy your probably going to want. It's a good rifle, just the ar10 is infinitely better in this role, not to mention the optics mounting aspect.

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by bulldozer3 View Post
    M1a can take alot to get the constant accuracy your probably going to want. It's a good rifle, just the ar10 is infinitely better in this role, not to mention the optics mounting aspect.

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
    Yea good point ! Now considering I would take a M1a all day over a AR10 I will agree the AR10 will be more consistent and accurate out of the box as a rule. The M1a can be made into a tack driver for sure but just more work involved. The EBR stock will fix a lot and it will increase the accuracy just by itself because of the lock up and such,,but yea they are heavy. I guess chose what you really want more and go from there, either one will be a great rifle.

  4. #4
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    I have been shooting the M-14/M1A platform for 38 years and currently shoot club matches with M1 Garands. The M1A is a fine rifle, but if I wanted to compete against precision rifles at 1,000 yards I would buy a flat top AR. If you run a wood stock on the M1A, you will need to bed the action to the stock and skim bed it every 1,000 to 1,500 rounds. You will also need to unitize the barrel band to the gas cylinder to achieve consistent barrel band to stock ferrule tension. Close attention to the gas cylinder and gas piston will be necessary for the type of shooting you want to do.

    The .30 caliber AR will be more accurate at a lower cost. Maintenance to maintain accuracy will be less intense and less costly.
    Train 2 Win

  5. #5
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    I'm torn..1,300 for m1a is kinda a once in a life time deal. If I did get it I would put it in a SAGE chassis and dump the wood.

    Shiming the gas cylinder for gas lock and unitize the barrel band seems to be the best gains in the accuracy department.

  6. #6
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    What are the accuracy requirements for this rifle?

    Ya, $1300 is a good deal for an M1A, but it and a SAGE chassis will be well above the cost of a good 308 AR.

    For competition, I'd choose a Criterion Hybrid Contour over the Ballistic Advantage (and I have an 18" BA that does pretty well).

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    I have read of and been told of current production SA M1A parts experiencing early failures. Unless you have a source for older usgi parts, the $1300 will produce more satisfaction with an ar10.

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    1.25-1.75 MOA. For local gas gun matches 2 moa is normal target size.

    I do shoot in the PRS and while I’ll never be competitive with a M1a in the gas gun match, the local matches I would be.



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    Quote Originally Posted by Djstorm100 View Post
    1.25-1.75 MOA. For local gas gun matches 2 moa is normal target size.

    I do shoot in the PRS and while I’ll never be competitive with a M1a in the gas gun match, the local matches I would be.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    That accuracy should be easily achieved with an M1A, even with a loaded with a well fitting USGI wood.....so go for it. If the cost and weight isn't a factor, then an M1A in a chassis should make ya happy.

  10. #10
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    Todays Springfields aren't like the Springfields with the GI parts

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