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Thread: Accuracy Build??

  1. #1
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    Accuracy Build??

    Hey Forum Mates,


    I recently decided to rebarrel my upper, for no other reason than a great veterans day sale at Faxon.

    I bought the Match 14.5 gunner, because I have always wanted a light weight 14.5 barrel. Since I do have a decent stock pile of 77gr ammo I decided to go with the match barrel over a regular stick.

    When I go to torque the barrel nut and flash hider is there any advice from the forum as to what procedure I should follow for the most inherent accuracy as possible? When I am done I want to have a shoot off between the new 416R match barrel and a regular BCM stick.

    Thanks in advance
    Tactical Nylon Micro Brewery

  2. #2
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    Don't over torque the muzzle device
    Black River Tactical
    BRT OPTIMUM Hammer Forged Chrome Lined Barrels - 11.5", 12.5", 14.5", 16"
    BRT EZTUNE Preset Gas Tubes - PISTOL, CAR, MID, RIFLE
    BRT Bolt Carrier Groups M4A1, M16 CHROME
    BRT Covert Comps 5.56, 6X, 7.62

  3. #3
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    Use barrel blocks to support the barrel when tightening, as in don't rely on the receiver to resist torque when installing the brake.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by PrarieDog View Post
    Use barrel blocks to support the barrel when tightening, as in don't rely on the receiver to resist torque when installing the brake.
    You think a reaction rod is good enough?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hulkstr8 View Post
    You think a reaction rod is good enough?
    Since the reaction rod interfaces with the barrel extension, no torque will be transferred to the receiver.

  6. #6
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    Reaction rod would work. Barrel blocks can be made from wood if you don't have a rod.

  7. #7
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    I'm hoping your barrel extension is snug inside of the upper receiver. If not, use Loctite 243 or 609. Perform normal install process. I don't think there is a definitive torque range to worry much about (like, higher or lower produces better accuracy). Some years ago, the AMU standard was 60ft/lbs.. Not sure if that changed. I prefer closer to 40ft/lbs..

    On my precision builds, I use shims from Advanced Armament and Rocksett on the muzzle device. Completely degrease the threads with brake cleaner. I choose a shim that allows the MD to almost time by hand. Season the threads with light back and forth torque. You may need to choose a slightly thicker shim at this point. The final torque is about 10-15 ft/lbs..

    It's best to match the bolt to the barrel extension, but you may not have that option. Some high-end barrels are sold with the bolt for this reason.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by tehpwnag3 View Post
    I'm hoping your barrel extension is snug inside of the upper receiver. If not, use Loctite 243 or 609. Perform normal install process. I don't think there is a definitive torque range to worry much about (like, higher or lower produces better accuracy). Some years ago, the AMU standard was 60ft/lbs.. Not sure if that changed. I prefer closer to 40ft/lbs..

    On my precision builds, I use shims from Advanced Armament and Rocksett on the muzzle device. Completely degrease the threads with brake cleaner. I choose a shim that allows the MD to almost time by hand. Season the threads with light back and forth torque. You may need to choose a slightly thicker shim at this point. The final torque is about 10-15 ft/lbs..

    It's best to match the bolt to the barrel extension, but you may not have that option. Some high-end barrels are sold with the bolt for this reason.
    Do such manufactures actually headspace the bolt to the barrel extension?

  9. #9
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    I recently bought the reaction rod for my new build, changed my life. Never going back! I believe botach has a reaction rod that is cheaper, if you’re looking to save some money, and it probably functions identically to the reaction rod. But I was sold once I saw it interfaces w/ the ramps and takes the pressure off the receiver. Plus, you can slide the upper to any position for ease of installation for various things.

  10. #10
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    Do you think I could get away with just using barrel blocks for the barrel nut and flash hider?

    I will be using an ALG rail and plan on following their torque method using the shims.

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