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Thread: Building ar rifle tool questions

  1. #31
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    You need some ROLL PIN punches, they have dimples on the face to keep from sliding off the roll pin you are driving

    I've never been able to find Starrett roll pin punches, but these are nice:

    https://www.midwayusa.com/product/10...-7-piece-steel

    https://www.midwayusa.com/product/16...unch-set-steel

    Box store models:

    http://www.sears.com/craftsman-6-pc-...p-00943167000P

    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Roll-Pin...1135/206515512

    Brownells, which I haven't been too impressed with:

    https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...prod26482.aspx

  2. #32
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    I noticed the mistake after I placed the order. Thankfully, was able to cancel on time. I got the grace USA 7 set roll pin punch set. Are regular punches necessary? Will using roll pin punched on regular pins damage the dimple tip?

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007W...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    I bought from amazon for the free shipping
    Last edited by heavygunner8; 11-23-17 at 12:15.

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by heavygunner8 View Post
    I noticed the mistake after I placed the order. Thankfully, was able to cancel on time. I got the grace USA 7 set roll pin punch set. Are regular punches necessary? Will using roll pin punched on regular pins damage the dimple tip?
    What did you cancel?

    I use the roll pin punches, the drive pin punches and the hollow end punches every time I assemble a rifle.
    DDM4V11 PRO, SSA-E, Vortex viper 6.5x20-44mm
    BCM 16 KMR-A, SSA, EO Tech EXPS 3-0, G-33 magnifier
    S&W M&P Sport II, BCM PNT, Aimpoint PRO
    BCM 9" 300 BLK upper/KAC lower/DD BCG/ BCM PNT/ Aimpoint T1
    Noveske upper/lower/handguard, 20" 6.5 Grendel Bartlein Barrel, SSA-E,Vortex viper GEN II PST 5x25-50mm
    16" BCA .223 Wylde "budget rifle", SPARC AR
    Retired Army Airborne Infantry

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by hdrolling View Post
    What did you cancel?

    I use the roll pin punches, the drive pin punches and the hollow end punches every time I assemble a rifle.
    I originally only canceled the starret drive pin. I re-ordered it just now. Didn’t cost me anything extra. Lol, my mistake.

  5. #35
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    I’ve seen some videos online where folks use vise itself to drive in pins, since you can do it carefully and slowly this way. How viable is this in your experiences?

  6. #36
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    Building ar rifle tool questions

    How about a torque limiting driver? Can anyone recommend a good quality US made tool that will last? I’ve been looking at a Borka ATD-SBK

    Anybody have any experience with this tool or recommend me something better?
    Last edited by Cold/Bore; 11-23-17 at 17:55.

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by heavygunner8 View Post
    I got my vise and torque wrench today. This my current set up. Unfortunately that’s the closest to the corner I can get without hitting anything underneath.



    I’ll see how this holds up, maybe the giant size of the washers on the bottom will make up for the thin-ness of the work bench top
    Just an input.... You normally want your vice mounted closer to the two bench edges. You'll want it for clearance when holding big stuff.

    I center the bolt holes in the frame rails. The 2x4s on edge "it appears" in your bench.

    Really puts more of the force into structure instead of the relatively thin top. Three into the rails, and then 1 into the top. Then glue & screw a chunk of 2x8 into the bench top from the bottom under the vice area

    Don't sweat the hole that will show in the bench top, drive a dowell in it if it bugs you. Or call it AA bench dog hole!

  8. #38
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    will the magpul ar15 wrench fit the Vltor A5 pistol tube castle nut?

  9. #39
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    MagPul armorer’s wrench: $54.99
    http://www.primaryarms.com/magpul-ar...-wrench-mag535

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by pinzgauer View Post
    Just an input.... You normally want your vice mounted closer to the two bench edges. You'll want it for clearance when holding big stuff.

    I center the bolt holes in the frame rails. The 2x4s on edge "it appears" in your bench.

    Really puts more of the force into structure instead of the relatively thin top. Three into the rails, and then 1 into the top. Then glue & screw a chunk of 2x8 into the bench top from the bottom under the vice area

    Don't sweat the hole that will show in the bench top, drive a dowell in it if it bugs you. Or call it AA bench dog hole!
    I should have been more specific... You normally want the stationary jaw extending over the bench edge by about 1/2".

    This allows you to hold very long stock vertically.

    Also, if you are right handed most prefer the vice on the right corner. It's just more convenient as the bench is in front of you when working on something, easier to adjust the vice with your right hand, etc.

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