OP: yes that is fine.
Crush washers work fine if you stop at the right point. But once you use a shim set you won't use crush washers much any more. Lately I only use them when I'm reinstalling an A2 on a barrel or upper that I'm going to sell.
OP: yes that is fine.
Crush washers work fine if you stop at the right point. But once you use a shim set you won't use crush washers much any more. Lately I only use them when I'm reinstalling an A2 on a barrel or upper that I'm going to sell.
It depends on the quality of the crush washer. Generally, I tighten against the crush washer until I'm at 270 to 180 degrees from proper clock, and then I back off a quarter turn, then tighten to the final position. But it depends on the crush washer, some are cheap crap. I've started using exclusively YHM crush washers because they always work well for me and crush consistently.
About shims; I just find them a pain in the arse and since I've never had a muzzle device come loose I just don't use shims. Unless I was using a suppressor, then I would use shims with rockset I guess.
Any kind of grease or oil will work on the threads and washer. I just use gun oil.
Last edited by ScottsBad; 01-11-18 at 15:02.
Crush washers do not require torquing. Properly time it and be done.
Regardless of what some do, CWs are not designed to be loosened and retightened. Check the TM.
Help me here please. Regarding the older A2 muzzle device, you state that you went 720* (2 full circles) to align / clock the device. I assume this is from the hand-tightened position. Why did the "clocking" not occur before the first 360*? I must be missing something here. Two complete rotations? Thanks.
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