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Thread: Free Float Rail Length M4

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cokie View Post
    7 inch rails like the KMR are usually designed to fit with the fsp intact. I really like having it.

    I bought a 15" rail for an 18" barrel. I hate it all. 16" or less is where its at, the lighter the better.
    Yea I liked it a lot. Found the pic on here but it wont let me repost it. Dont know why but it says my pics are to big and there the same as always
    Steve

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by vicious_cb View Post
    Sounds like you are very new to the AR platform and would benefit more from shooting the rifle in its current form before making any changes.
    ^^^This
    The 6920 is a nice rifle, but if you are new, I'd recommend ammunition and range time before you dress it
    up. The accessories (rail, optics, etc.) should augment the shooters performance not make up for the lack of it.
    Dr. Carter G. Woodson, “History shows that it does not matter who is in power or what revolutionary forces take over the government, those who have not learned to do for themselves and have to depend solely on others never obtain any more rights or privileges in the end than they had in the beginning.”

  3. #23
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    If I was doing it over I would go with a 13" rail instead of the 10". The 10" is barely more ergonomic than a carbine length forearms.

  4. #24
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    I have the Colt 6920 with the fixed A2 front sight. My options were replace (which I didn't want to do) or trim it down to fit under a longer rail. The problem was I would still need to remove it to replace the delta ring.
    I opted for the Troy Charlie rail, it uses the existing delta ring and is easy to mount. The downside is it's not the lightest rail. Midwest Industries has some but they weren't in stock when I made the change.
    https://troyind.com/products/charlie-blk

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by omegajb View Post
    I have the Colt 6920 with the fixed A2 front sight. My options were replace (which I didn't want to do) or trim it down to fit under a longer rail. The problem was I would still need to remove it to replace the delta ring.
    I opted for the Troy Charlie rail, it uses the existing delta ring and is easy to mount. The downside is it's not the lightest rail. Midwest Industries has some but they weren't in stock when I made the change.
    https://troyind.com/products/charlie-blk
    It is possible to remove the delta ring assembly/handguard cap without removing the FSB. Make two cuts about 30* apart from one another as closely as you can get to the barrel/FSB and break that piece of the pie out with pliers. Then you can pull the two sides apart up and around over the barrel.

    Source: I’ve done it many times.

    I know this doesn’t help you, but wanted to share that should anyone else not know for the future.

    With the new MOE SL handguard, unless you are using active NV, I’m not sure I’d ever buy a rail every again. It lets you get a VFG out just about the same place I’d put it on a 10” FF rail and the MOE is stronger than most rails folks are using these days anyway.
    Last edited by Eurodriver; 02-24-18 at 11:16.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eurodriver View Post
    It is possible to remove the delta ring without removing the FSB. Make two cuts about 30* apart from one another as closely as you can get to the barrel/FSB and break that piece of the pie out with pliers. Then you can pull the two sides apart up and around over the barrel.

    Source: I’ve done it many times.

    I know this doesn’t help you, but wanted to share that should anyone else not know for the future.

    With the new MOE SL handguard, unless you are using active NV, I’m not sure I’d ever buy a rail every again. It lets you get a VFG out just about the same place I’d put it on a 10” FF rail and the MOE is stronger than most rails folks are using these days anyway.
    Thanks but getting the delta ring off wasn't the problem, I was going to cut it but getting a new nut for the free front rail was the problem.

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by omegajb View Post
    Thanks but getting the delta ring off wasn't the problem, I was going to cut it but getting a new nut for the free front rail was the problem.

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
    If you have a free float rail that doesn't require removing the FSB then it uses the barrel nut that works with the delta ring/spring weld/snap ring assembly. Either totally drop in with no modification (Troy Charlie/Delta) or requires removing the delta ring/spring weld/snap ring assembly (either by normal disassembly methods or cutting) such as Centurion C4, and other 2 piece drop ins use the stock nut.

  8. #28
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    I'm going to be that asshole...

    OP: Unless you are running a laser beam, a rail is a complete waste of money. Leave your gun alone, and spend the money on ammunition.

  9. #29
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    I own a few 6920's that are used more as spare guns, or waiting to be given to kids/grandkids. When using a light weight barreled 16" gun with a low profile gas block, I prefer the 15" M-Lok hand guard. My current preference is the Daniel Defense V7.

    But with the fixed front sight of the 6920, I don't try to make it into something it's not. All of my 6920's are set up with MagPul MOE-Sl hand guards. I can easily attach a white light. I like to attach a finger stop on the bottom as it's low profile and helps me tremendously with control. The entire setup is light weight, cheap and effective. If I want to be able to extend my arms out when shooting, I grab a different gun. If I want a simple and still very effective carbine, a 6920 outfitted with MagPul MOE-Sl furniture is hard to beat.

  10. #30
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    Tried the SL carbine firearm and it feels good, but the slots aren't as far forward as the standard mlok and I don't think they had the super extended cantilever scout at the time....and not sure if it gets more offset than the 1913 scout mount I stuck on them.

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