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Thread: How to clamp upper while installing a muzzle device

  1. #1
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    How to clamp upper while installing a muzzle device

    I am curious about the proper method to hold the upper in a vise while torquing on a muzzle device. I understand that the best way is to clamp the barrel as close to the muzzle as possible using barrel vise blocks, rather than clamping the upper receiver in an upper receiver vise block, because this can potentiality damage the receiver. However, what about situations with longer handguards/rails that extend too far towards the muzzle to allow for the use of barrel blocks? Surely the rail doesn't need to be removed to install and torque the muzzle device, right? I'm specifically referring to devices where the manufacturer recommends 25-30 ft-lbs of torque.

  2. #2
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    Last edited by mpom; 03-08-18 at 12:25.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by mpom View Post
    https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...prod55168.aspx

    Believe Brownell's has their version as well.

    Mark
    Brownells version is completely round and doesn't hold in the vice as well as the geissele reaction rod, which has two flattened sides for the vice jaws to clamp onto

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

  4. #4
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    True, but Brownell's version has a square hole in bottom of rod. I insert a 1/2" breaker bar into hole and secure breaker bar in vise, almost vertical. Now barrel is horizontal. Has worked multiple times.

    Mark

  5. #5
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    I got this one https://www.botach.com/kley-zion-bar...per-receivers/
    It's $60 but it has flats ground in to make it easier to put in your vise. Definitely the best way to hold your upper for any work. The Geissele one is over $100.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

  6. #6
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    If, and when, I buy a barrel extension rod, it will be the Kley Zion.

    However, as long as you don't care, the upper doesn't sit at 90 degrees to the ground when clamped in a squared off vice.

    So, if you like that and are OCD, the Reaction Rod can accommodate the 90degree positioning of the upper.

    Not a big deal to someone like me, so I would rather save $$.

  7. #7
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    Officially, you should use barrel blocks.

    Get an overtorqued hider or an undertorqued extension and you can have a problem with the RR or receiver blocks.

    Probably half a dozen threads here on that issue.

    Or just use the RR and if the MD does not come right off with reasonable torque, do something different. (Like unset the rockset)

    I want a Ned barrel block thingie, but my Lowes poly vice blocks have worked fine on every MD I've done lately.

  8. #8
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    Or use something like these around the barrel and leave the upper/barrel junction alone.
    http://usa.palmettostatearmory.com/w...BoCjqcQAvD_BwE

    Another style that needs a sheet of leather between the barrel and the block
    http://www.primaryarms.com/ar-15-m16...vise-jaws-tl05
    Last edited by dpete; 03-08-18 at 21:04.

  9. #9
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    I use a magpul bev block.

  10. #10
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    25 lbs ft of torque on a muzzle device
    150 lbs ft of torque on a barrel extension

    Hell of a difference. However, the proper tool to use would be a barrel fixture and a vise. For some uppers this is not an option, a reaction rod or the BEV is a useful tool
    Proper Planing Prevents Piss Poor Performance.......

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