.22LR suppressor cleaning advice please

[308sako]

So my first .22LR stamp has arrived for my Surefire Ryder. Instructions say NOT to use anything abrasive because of the interior parts coatings. Soaking for days in solvent loosens the carbon but does nothing for the lead. Lead remover does nothing to remove the accumulated lead either. I have not shot more than 120 rounds on any given outing yet.

My questions are; what ammunition produces the least fouling?

How many rounds can be fired without rendering the silencer useless?

Does a pistol foul worse than a rifle?

Thanks

[SC-Texas]

What are the parts made of?

Will the coatings tolerate and survive paracetic acid aka the DIP?

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[308sako]

Ryder 22-A red colored type III hard anodizing to MIL spec. Manual says up to 1K rounds...

edit to add aluminium material

[SC-Texas]

Ryder 22-A red colored type III hard anodizing to MIL spec. Manual says up to 1K rounds...

edit to add aluminium material

Do not ever under any circumstances expose aluminum to paracetic acid aka the dip.

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[308sako]

Thank you

:-)

[dmd08]

I tumble mine in stainless steel media like my brass. My baffles are stainless though. I don't know it it's safe for aluminum.

[tigershilone]

Sorry OP, you are paying the price of buying an aluminum can. You CANNOT use "the dip" or clean with a ultrasonic cleaner as both will destroy aluminum (there are those that will argue that you can use a ultrasonic cleaner, but it will for sure destroy your anodised finish). You also need to stay away from any other acidic cleaners like simple green, CLR, orange wonder and the like as they will also etch aluminum. Tough road to be on, but mechanical cleaning with solvents is your only way.

I made some tools out of aluminum to quickly clean out my SpectreII stainless steel click baffles, takes less than 15 minutes to clean the can by hand now.

[tigershilone]

The pics of the baffles are after approx 1200 rounds, 22 is really dirty.

The tri-wing tool scrapes the barrel of the baffle out quickly and the cone portion gets the bottom coned area the tri-wing misses. The two big alum cylinders hold the click baffles preventing damage or dents during dis-assembly or cleaning.

I used to do the SS pin tumble clean, but that took forever. This is much easier and quicker.

I also coat every internal part with silver hi-temp anti-seize (made for SS, aluminum should use copper based anti-seize) and that helps a lot too, big chunks just break off the surfaces easily.

[308sako]

The pics of the baffles are after approx 1200 rounds, 22 is really dirty.

The tri-wing tool scrapes the barrel of the baffle out quickly and the cone portion gets the bottom coned area the tri-wing misses. The two big alum cylinders hold the click baffles preventing damage or dents during dis-assembly or cleaning.

I used to do the SS pin tumble clean, but that took forever. This is much easier and quicker.

I also coat every internal part with silver hi-temp anti-seize (made for SS, aluminum should use copper based anti-seize) and that helps a lot too, big chunks just break off the surfaces easily.

Well I'm not so sure I could make tools that would be as sweet as your set, but solvent (Hoppe's) and soaking hasn't been too bad as yet because I don't get the round count up too high. I have been assembling the cleaned can with a soaking of Slip2000 before use, that seems to help somewhat, especially in the tube itself. Guess I'll try some of the anti-seize as that sounds promising.

Thank you.

[mgobel]

I have the same suppressor.

After cleaning, I heat the baffles up to 250 degrees in an oven for 30 minutes. I then remove the baffles and place them into a mason jar with pure silicone (from Amazon). I let them sit overnight, then remove the baffles, let the silicon drain and reassemble the 22A. This makes cleaning MUCH easier.

I really like the light weight of the 22A but I have a DA Mask for abuse. I use the same process on the MASK as I do not like the poison DIP residual.

There are instructions on this on the internet.

Regards,