Is this staking enough?

[titsonritz]

our new product (ESF, End plate, Sling adapter, Forward Controls)

I did not see this on your website, only the B5 option. Is it available yet? Do you have a link or photo?

I'd take the wisdom and real world experience from Will and Ash over a dealer's haughty opinion any day.

Hell ya, I don't believe half the shit I've heard come out of some dealer's mouths.

[Duffy]

Prototype, the shop used some nut to secure the ESF and RE to the receiver. A castle nut will come flush with the rear of the ESF.



Rapid prototype with CNF and Vltor A5 RE.


We'll be making a 2 lug wrench for the ESF. Since 1/4 of the castle nut is masked by the QD sockets housing, on rare occasions, not all three wrench notches are presented for torquing. Our short 2 lug castle nut wrench works on any castle nut.

If the ESF looks familiar, it's because KAC, LWRC have done it already. ESF has a rear facing socket, which on the face of it doesn't sound like much, but took considerable tweaking to make possible. ESF will allow the use of a castle nut and for the carbine stock to fully collapse.

Design calls for 7075 anodized for ESF's material, we're still looking at steel and its higher cost as an option.

[titsonritz]

Cool, thanks for the pic.

[P2000]

I redid it will this be better or should I redo the whole thing? Attachment 51966

I think that would have been a good stake if the castle nut was correct. The notch isn't letting metal displace effectively. The notch is so shallow where it touches the endplate that no metal gets to where it would interfere with rotation.
Up to you if you want to redo it. If the castle nut was torqued properly to 40 foot pounds it will probably never ever loosen. But if probably isn't good enough, buy a milspec nut or Duffy's nut and re do it.


Attachment 41482


Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

[Duffy]

That's a good looking stake right there. Wonder why whoever made these out of spec nuts made them that way, it's probably cheaper to cut a 45 degree notch than that oval depression. Probably MIM or investment cast so it doesn't matter. Still, why not do it right?

[georgeib]

I redid it will this be better or should I redo the whole thing? Attachment 51966

You're good. Quit worrying.

[RobertTheTexan]

Duff - do the scallops have a purpose or for aesthetics? As far as castle nuts go, it is a nice looking nut.

I knew it was a nut DD uses, and it's out of spec. TDP castle nut staking notches are angled at 45 degrees, and 0.07 long.

Factory, in spec castle nut on left, ours (CNF prototype) on right. We changed the staking notches from 45 to 30 degree to get make them longer and deeper.

[RobertTheTexan]

Yes, it is plenty. Its only meant to keep it from loosening and you moved enough to prevent that.

Usually when I see a long line of posts from knowledgeable members, including our Industry Professionals, and last but not least a guy who TEACHES Armorer Courses, and they are all saying that the staking is substandard... Well I reckon you can probably take it to the bank that it is in fact substandard.
But you are new and don’t have many posts, so I doubt anyone will bust your chops for your lame answer.

[Duffy]

The coarse serrations in the form of short and shallow scallops are a single use feature. I got tired of using the sharp wrench notches for serrations when I rotate the nut towards the receiver so I made sure ours would have some kind of aid.

As you can see in the prototype (upper pic), the scallops are shorter in the production model (lower pic), the scallops drew too much attention and I toned them down. Probably the first time in the firearms business where a company intentionally tried to make things look more drab

[26 Inf]

I redid it will this be better or should I redo the whole thing? Attachment 51966

It depends, are you hitting the deck in a firefight? Buttstroking someone? Making a combat jump into Zaire? All those activities could place enough torsional stress on the joint that the stake would actually be needed to keep the castle nut from loosening.

Seriously, try to get a little more displacement with the second stake and you should be GTG.

I don't like re-staking an endplate the marks from the first stakes are just off putting to me, so I use a new one. Only a couple bucks unless you are rolling a QD endplate.

Get a little more displacement on the other one and it will be fine.

ETA: take a picture of the second one and post it, that will give me an excuse to come in and check the computer in about an hour. It's too dang hot for me to be digging and setting forms.